SEASONAL GARDENING

Here in the UK we don't have climate, we have weather. But it is (loosely) separated into four seasons. For the gardener each season becomes early, middle and late. For instance, early spring is February to March, mid-spring is March to April, and so on throughout the year.
Be Patient
It's easy to succumb to the temptation to rush into the garden on the first sunny day of spring, especially for those of us who spend six months a year re-reading seed catalogues and peering wistfully at the garden through frosty windows. Indeed, for many of us, the asthmatic coughing of two-cycle engines, rudely awoken and pressed into service before the completion of their well-earned period of rest, is a truer harbinger of spring than the return of migrating birds.
But it's often better to wait for the first rush to the garden centres to subside before undertaking anything more than an exploratory expedition into the garden. Some crops, such as peas, can be safely planted in cold soil; but, for most plants, it's much better to wait for the soil to warm up before planting. A good rule of thumb is never to work wet soil. Heavy soils, especially, will compact horribly if you rush out to till them too early in the season or after a heavy rain. Trampling about in clay soil will make you feel as though your legs are about to fall off at the hips, and will repay your eagerness to re-enact the Battle of the Somme by leaving a legacy of soil that's almost impossible to cultivate in the heat of summer.
The first warm days of spring are meant to be enjoyed in a hammock, listening to the buzz of the first insects and drinking in the aroma of the warming soil... while your neighbours go mad raking and mowing their lawns. Relax! It's much better to wait for your lawn to wake up before you start making demands of it. Cool season grasses, like Kentucky Blue, need time to root in the spring; so give them a chance to wake up and do a little growing before you trample around compacting the wet soil. Your lawn will repay your generosity by remaining green in the summer, with less of the supplemental watering that is demanded by your neighbours' lawns.
A battle is won or lost in the planning stage, so take the time in the early spring to stand around your garden with big mugs of tea, while the mysterious forces at work in the universe provide you with inspiration. The garden centres are already stocked with all sorts of tempting things, many of which will certainly be killed by late frosts as soon as they are planted. It's much better to wait for the danger of frost to pass before purchasing tender plants.
It's the Same with Sowing Seeds...
'Sow indoors January-March' it may say on the back of the packet. That doesn't really mean that you should start them off on New Year's Day. Seeds started too soon are likely to get spindly, as there is less light for them. By definition they'll need to spend more time in a pot or tray on your windowsill, or in your conservatory or greenhouse. This doesn't make for good plants as they are actually far more likely to pick up a disease or virus in these situations. It's heartbreaking to see all your brave little seedlings flattened by a fungus.
A Short Potted Seasonal Calendar

Early Spring – A Time for Pruning!

Lemon Verbena - Only bring Lemon Verbena out of the greenhouse when all threat of frost is gone; it's not hardy plant, this one.
Dogwood - Dogwood is grown for it's bright stems. Cut it back to about three to four inches off the ground, as the youngest stems are the brightest. The discarded stems can be cut to ten inches and planted into the ground or into pots. They should root for new plants in the autumn. The red varieties look good next to ponds.
Summer Flowering Plants - Prune those that flower on young wood. Cut to within 1-2 inch of the old wood to encourage new shoots. Also cut down last years growth of herbaceous plants.
Snowdrops - Those that have finished flowering can be dug up, divided, and replanted. Also, when daffodils begin to show their shoots, dig them up, divide the bulbs, and replant immediately.
Mid-spring – Any hardy plants that have been grown over the winter in greenhouses and on windowsills can be planted out now, as long as the soil is workable. Any seeds that need an early start can be sown now. Keep the seedlings in a frost-free, light place, but shelter from strong sunlight.
Late Spring – Remove blanket weed from ponds, and fill gaps with new plants. Tie in climbing plants to supports with soft twine. Leave plenty of room for growth, so tie loosely! Feed with high potash fertiliser to encourage flowering.
Early Summer - Plant out any non-hardy seedlings that have survived. If you have sweet peas keep deadheading as it encourages more flowers.
Mid-summer – In the wildlife garden, cut back nettles for new growth. Butterflies don't like to lay their eggs on old plants.
Early Autumn – A time for propagation! Any plants you have that you want more of, now is the time to gain more stock for free! There are many different ways to do it, and most plants have a choice of two or more (layering, dividing, collecting seeds, taking cuttings, etc). Prune any emerging aquatic plants on ponds. Never take more than a third of each plant. Leave surface plants as they are as they prevent algae. Put non-hardy plants into the greenhouse to 'overwinter'.
Late Autumn – Divide large rhubarb crowns, especially those that flowered freely. Lift the crowns and split with a spade into fist sized pieces. Replant one metre apart. Strong crowns can be potted up for forcing. This means putting them in the dark, covering with straw and a bucket, and then letting them grow. The forced stems grow a pale pink, and can be eaten as normal when they are ready. Special pots can be bought for this, to put over the plant in the soil.