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Big Wave Surfing Research Paper

Submitted By
Words 1017
Pages 5
Makai Estioko
May Chang
English 101
30 November 2015
Paddle surfing big waves Surfing is the art of riding breakings waves using any number and styles of boards, watercraft, or one’s own body. Surfing has been a part of the Polynesians cultures for thousands of years. Europeans were first introduced to surfing by Lieutenant James King of Captain James Cook’s crew in 1769. Cook wrote about surfing he witnessed while exploring the Hawaiian Islands. Three Hawaiian princes attended St. Matthew’s Hall, San Mateo California in 1885. During that summer the three traveled to Santa Cruz and surfed, introducing surfing to North America. Over the last 130 years the art of surfing has remained the same. The equipment and sizes of waves ridden has changed. …show more content…
Surfboards can have one to five removable fins, allowing surfers to better setup surfboard handling in big waves. Surfers are connected to their boards by leashes which vary in length and thickness. Surfers at cold water breaks wear wetsuits. Big wave surfers have started to use personal flotation devices (PFD). A specialised safety feature of one CO2 cartridge installed in the PFD and attached to a ring. When the ring is pulled the CO2 inflates bladders on the PFD allowing the surfer to ascend to surface more quickly. Training involves paddling, underwater rock running simulating being held down by waves for long periods of time, and gym workouts. Mental aspects have been honed by years of experience in ever larger and more dangerous conditions, knowledge of surf spots and water conditions, and knowing all gear is in …show more content…
It has spread throughout the world becoming a major sport and past time for millions. Only a handful of those have the wherewithal and mental toughness to ride the biggest, meanest, scariest waves on the planet. They do this under their own power not to garner acclaim but for the pure rush of pushing the edge on what is rideable. Only time will tell what the next evolution of big wave surfing will bring.
References:
Surfer Today. How to Paddle faster for waves. Accessed: http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/10255-how-to-paddle-faster-for-waves 28 Nov 2015. Web

Dixon, C. Big-Wave Paddle Battle. Outside Live Bravely. 2012. Web

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Measure a wave Accessed: http://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/edu/learning/player/lesson09/l9la1_b.html Web

Surf Sports Hawaii. Measuring Wave Heights. Accessed: http://surfspotshawaii.com/wavemeasurement.html Web

Surfing." National Geographic Science of Everything. National Geographic. Washington: National Geographic Society, 2013. Credo Reference. Web. 1 Dec.

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