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Malay Cuisine

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Introduction The Malays are the people who inhabit the Malayan Peninsula and some of the nearby islands, including the east coast of Sumatra, the coast of Borneo and smaller islands that lie between the areas. These tribal proto-Malays were a seafaring people. Present day Malays of the Peninsula and coasts of the Malay Archipelago are "anthropologically described as deutero-Malays" and are the descendants of the tribal proto-Malays mixed with modern Indian, Thai, Arab and Chinese ancestry. Malay culture itself has been strongly influenced by that of people of neighboring lands, including Siamese, Javanese, Sumatran and Indians. The influence of Hindu India was historically very great, and the Malay people were largely Hinduized before they were converted to Islam in the 15th century. For 2000 years, the traffic of traders between the Malayan Archipelago and India resulted in frequent intermarriages especially Tamils and Gujeratis. Some Hindu rituals survive in Malay culture, as in the second part of the marriage ceremony and in various ceremonies of State. Malays have also preserved some of their more ancient beliefs in spirits of the soil and jungle, often having recourse to medicine men called bomohs [shamans] for the treatment of ailments. In the northern states of Perlis and Kedah, intermarriages with Thais were commonplace. The east coast state of Kelantan still has traces of Javanese culture that date back to the era of the Majapahit Empire of the 14th century. The Sumatran kingdom of Acheh dominated Perak for over a century. The Bugis from Indonesia's Celebes Islands colonized Selangor and fought for rulers in States along the length of the peninsula - from Kedah to Johor. The Minangkabaus from Sumatra had their own independent chiefdoms in what is today the state of Negri Sembilan. This mix of different ethnic groups forms what is the modern Malay and can be clearly seen in the lineage of, for example, Malacca's royalty. Sultan Muhammad Shah married a Tamil from South India. Sultan Mansur Shah married a Javanese, a Chinese and a Siamese; the Siamese wife bore two future Sultans of Pahang. It was this diversity of races, cultures and influences that has the given the modern Malay race the rich and unique historical heritage it has today.
History of Malay cuisine in Malaysia This rich historical heritage has evidently resulted in its exotic cuisine. In Malay cuisine fresh aromatic herbs and roots are used, some familiar, such as lemongrass, ginger, garlic, shallots, kaffir limes and fresh chilies. Both fresh and dried chilies are used, usually ground into a sambal or chili paste to add hotness to dishes. There are however, less commonly known herbs and roots that are essential in Malay cooking such as daunkemangi (a type of basil), daunkesum (polygonum, commonly called laksa leaf), bungakantan (wild ginger flower buds or torch ginger), kunyitbasah (turmeric root), lengkuas (galangal) and pandan or pandanus (screwpine leave). Dried spices frequently used in Malay cooking are jintanmanis (fennel), jintanputih (cumin) and ketumbar (coriander). Other dried spices used are cloves, cardamom, star anise, mustard seeds, fenugreek, cinnamon and nutmeg. Both fresh and dried ingredients are frequently used together, usually ground into a rempah ('spice paste). The rempah is then sautéed in oil to bring out its flavorful aroma and toasted goodness. Santan (coconut milk) is the basis of Malay lemak dishes. Lemak dishes are typically not hot to taste, it is aromatically spiced and coconut milk is added for a creamy richness. Assam Jawa, or tamarind paste is a key element in many Malay assam dishes for adding a sour or tangy taste, especially for fish and seafood dishes. Tamarind paste is the pulp extracted from tamarind pods commonly used as a souring ingredient in Latin America, India, Africa and Asia. While the prime taste is sour, the underlying tang is slightly sweet, reminiscent of dried apricots or dried prunes. The pulp or paste is commonly sold in the form of a semi-dry flat block. To use, pinch a small lump from the block and soak it in some warm water. Then use fingers to squish it about in the water to separate the seeds and fibers, the resulting paste or tamarind water is used for cooking.

The diversity of its Malay traditional food is recognized mainly by its geographical location, according to the states. On the west coast, the northern states are well known for their hot, spicy food. This is due to heavy influence of neighboring Thailand. The central part is famous for its rich gravy and the southern states known by their thick and sour spicy sauces. The east coast states on the other hand, are more associated with sweet, but rich fare with glutinous rice. Furthermore, Malay as a race is divided into many small "tribes" or ethnic groups (eg: Acheh, Bugis, Mandailing, Minang, Banjar, Pattani or Jawa). Intermarriages among ethnic groups also result in a rich food culture. So, each tribe has their own spread of traditional food that is typical to their respective villages.
Malay Cuisine of Different State in Malaysia
Kelantan
The Kelantanese cuisine, heavily influenced by Thai cuisine, is quite popular among Malaysians. In fact, many visitors come to Kelantan just to taste the special delicacies that cannot be found elsewhere. The use of sugar is a must in every Kelantanese kitchen, and thus most Kelantanese dishes are sweet. Kelantanese food makes more use of coconut milk than anywhere else in the country. Curries are richer, creamier, and more influenced by the tastes of nearby Thailand. Nasi Dagang is a mix of white rice and brown glutinous rice (special glutinous rice) which is cooked with coconut milk (santan), blended onions and garlic and some spices (such as fenugreek) (Malay: halba). Fish or chicken curry comes as an add-on to complete the dishes, so it’s recommended to take only a small portion as it is extremely filling. The Nasi Dagang is one of the tastiest dishes in Kelantan and goes well with fish curry, sour salad, hard boiled eggs and curried chicken. Nasi Kerabu literally means “salad rice”. Kelantan’s Nasi Kerabu is “white rice” and served with “tumis” gravy with local herbs, leaves and vegetables. This is considerably different from the version served in other parts of Malaysia, which is the dyed-blue rice without “tumis” gravy. The colouring comes from a type of flower, although some sellers use artificial equivalents. Apart from that it is also served with fried fish, keropok, salted egg, “solok lada” (fish fillet and coconut-stuffed chillis), and pickled garlic. Nasi Kerabu Solok lada Budu Ayam Golek/Ayam Percik Wood-fire broiled chicken dressed with sweet coconut gravy. Ayam Golek/Ayam Percik is eaten with white rice in major family dishes and can also be dipped into “cholek” (Thai chilli sauce).

Keropok Gote is a Kelantanese fish sausages. Made by combining fish flesh and sago, keropok gote is rolled into long firm sticks and then steamed or boiled. To enjoy it, one has to cut it into desired bite sized and deep fried. Different from Terengganu’s keropok lekor, the Kelantan variety is thicker and longer in size and has to be fried to be eaten. Keropok Gote is probably the one snack which all Kelantanese children grow up with. It is a must at all school canteens.

Kelantanese Laksa is the easiest laksa recipe that is famous among peoples from the town of Kota Bharu of the Kelantan state, located at the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The main ingredient of Kelantan Laksa's sauce is 'ikan kembong' or round scad mackerel that are boiled and minced. The minced fish are fried with onions, garlic, ginger, datil pepper, belacan, 'kantan' flower, Vietnamese coriander or 'daun kesum', lemon grass and dried tamarind slice. Coconut milk will then be added as the final ingredient and stirred until it all mixed up and become thick. Kelantan Laksa is served just like the Italian spaghetti by adding 'ulam' (raw vegetables) and blended chili on the side. Another variable of Kelantan Laksa is 'Laksam'. The sauce's recipe are exactly the same but the noodles are a bit bigger and flat.

Laksam Kelantan Tapai (halalan toyyiba) is stored to make sure that it will be ready on Eid. The tapai is made of cooked sticky rice mixed with ragi (speacial yis)*. Then it is wrapped with the banana leaves. When the tapai has matured or ripen, it become sweet. This tapai is not the same as the tapai that is made in Eastern Malaysia (Sabah & Sarawak) as their tapai is similar to the alcohol.

Terengganu Nasi Dagang is a rice speciality of Terengganu. The Dish is made by cooking rice and glutinous rice together, to which is then added coconut cream once it is cooked. It is eaten with its own specially made side dishes of tuna curry and a light vegetable pickle.
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Sata or Satah is probably Terengganu best kept secret. Inside, there is the most flavourful and fragrant packet of fish paste mixed with onion, ginger and cut red chillies. sata Keropok losong is one of the unique foods that are a specialty of Terengganu. Prepared from fish meat grounded with sago and salt, these are then rolled and made into the shape of long tubes similar to sausages. Akok, is made of fresh coconut milk, egg yolk, flour, nypa sugar, fresh pandan essence and a bit of salt, all battered up lovingly into a rich light green, creamy mixture that is then baked in heated up akok molds over a smoky, slow coconut husk fire.

Laksam: delightful yet simple dish, laksam is prepared using both wheat and rice flours. The gravy is made from fish meat which is boiled, pureed, and later mixed with coconut milk. Laksam is a cuisine of the state which is made from rice flour and eaten with sauce. Normally liquid mixture of rice flour will be coated on the lid of the pot and cook. When hardens, it will be rolled into a long and ready to serve. Time served, it can be cut into pieces for easy dressing absorbs laksam.

Kedah Known as the 'Rice Bowl of Malaysia', Kedah is particularly famous for its numerous rice dishes and rice preparations. 'Nasi Ulam' is an extremely popular dish, which is made by mixing rice with fresh vegetables and rare spices.

Pekasam is different freshwater fish (usually from the paddy fields) are cleaned, salted, then marinated in a mixture of fried rice grains, asam jawa and brown sugar for a period of about 2 weeks. This will result in a firm texture with a slightly sour taste, quite unlike salted fish, which is usually soft and intensely salty.

Dodol is the desserts and sweet dishes are also extremely popular in Kedah. Dodol comes in different flavours and colours depending on the ingredients used. Dodol manisan is brownish and sweetened with coconut sugar while dodol pandan is greenish and sweetened with cane sugar. There is also durian flavour which made of durian. The production of dodol is very unique and takes a longer time to be cooked.

Karas Cake is a traditional cake made from rice flour. The crispy, sweet kuih resembles fried vermicelli and can be widely found at stalls or markets in Kedah.

Perlis Pasembor is the mixture of sliced-up dough and cucuk udang (prawn fritters), bean curd, boiled potatoes and hard-boiled egg served atop a bed of roughly-julienned vegetables, primarily cucumber and bangkwang (yam bean). It is served with a dressing that is totally unique to the east – a large, loving ladleful of thick, rich, sweet, reddish-brown spicy sauce made with Ubi Keledek (sweet potato) and chillis.

Glutinous Rice with Spicy Fish Floss(Pulut Sambal) is famous in the Northern States of Malaysia especially around the coastal region like Kuala Perlis of Perlis.
The traditional way of serving is by wrapping the glutinous rice together with the sambal in banana leaf. The aroma of the spices in the sambal together with the banana leaf is mouth watering.

Kuih Goyang or also known as ‘kuih ros’ is made of rice flour that is fried in hot cooking oil. It is named as ‘kuih ros’ because it shape is similar with rose flower. It original colour is like golden colour and nowadays people make it in variety colours.

Perak Malay food in Perak is spicy with a hint of sweetness. Herbs like as lemon grass, pandan leaves and wild ginger bus are common ingredients of Malay dishes. Perak Malay cuisine is mostly influenced by Aceh or Siamese cuisine. Various Perak traditional foods are such as Rendang Tok, Gulai Tempoyak, and Sambal Tempoyak. Tempoyak is popular Malay delicacy in Perak. It is durian extract which is preserved and kept in an urn. Commonly eaten with chillies and other dishes, it is well known due to the popularity of its key ingredient, durian, among the locals. Rending tok Gulai tempoyak
Melaka
The Malays are the biggest group of people in Malacca. Malay cuisines in Malacca are infamous for its heat. Fiery hot asam pedas (translates into hot and sour) method of cooking is favourite of the state. The basic recipe is used and adapted according to main ingredient used. For instance, kaffir lime leaf is used for catfish, beef and stingray and Vietnamese mint is used for mackerel and snappers. It differs from other states because torch ginger bud is not used at all. Other famous food of the Malay community includes cincalok and dodol. Malaccan satay is a popular Malay dish in the state and the satay found here tastes different form the rest of the country as accompanying sauce is made of belimbing, a small sour fruit instead of peanuts. Malacca satay Spicy sambal
Johor
The cuisine in Johor is influenced by the Arabs and the people living in the surrounding Malaya archipelago. The food is delicious and is made from exotic herbs and spices. Some of the dishes are made from ingredients that are not found in any other parts of Malaysia. The traditional food of Johor is truly unique. There are different types of food in Johor. The Laksa Johor is a traditional food of Johor. It is made with coconut milk. Then there is the Mee Bandung, another traditional dish. Penganag Kacau keledek is a dessert made from sweet potato and eggs. It is a noodle dish, which is extremely popular in the Johor. Arisa is a chicken preparation and normally a food of the royalties. Today, however, this dish is extremely rare. Sate is a favorite dish of Malaysia, mainly found in Johor Bahru and Muar. Telur Pindang is a popular dish prepared during weddings. It is made from eggs, rice and exotic spices.

Laksa johor Serawa pisang Another popular dish of Johor is Roti Kirai or Roti Jala. It is eaten with sweets, curry or spices. Serawa is a popular sweet of Johor. It is made with coconut milk, brown sugar and pandan leaf. Besides these, there are many other traditional dishes also that one can try out in Johor like Halwa Maskat, Pecal, Mee Soto, Pendaram, Lontong, Nasi Briyani Gam, Nasi Ambeng, Otak-otak and many others.
Selangor
Sate Kajang is a generic name for a style of sate where the meat chunks are bigger than normal and the sweet peanut sauce is served with a dollop of fried chili paste. Hence, Sate Kajang is now found throughout Malaysia and not just in Kajang. Sate Kajang Haji Samuri is very popular in Kajang as well as throughout Malaysia. This is currently the most well known chain of Kajang satay restaurants. Sate Kajang Haji Samuri offer chicken sate, beef sate, deer sate, rabbit sate, fish sate and many other variants.

Rojak Klang is a popular food in Klang, Selangor. Among the ingredients are Kuih, Egg, Squid, Tofu, Cucumber, Potato and Rojak Gravy
The Famous Rojak Klang stalls is Rojak Klang Gani located at food court at Emporium Makan in Klang. This stall has operated for more than 30 years.

Yong Tau Fu is a Hakka Chinese dish consisting of large pieces of tofu and vegetables, stuffed with fish paste, boiled in stock and served dipped into sweet and spicy sauces. It Kuala Lumpur, normally we can see the Yong Tau fu is eaten with a soup and has transformed to be suitable for Malays.

Pahang Pahang is the largest state in Peninsula Malaysia and is situated in the eastern coastal region. The Malay food and dishes of Pahang have naturally been influenced by the cuisines of the Indians, Chinese and Arabs, who came as traders during the busy Spice Trade in the old days. For example, the Indian traders introduced food ingredients such as cumin, coriander and ginger, which can be extensively found in the traditional Malay food and dishes of Pahang. The Arabs also left behind their culinary influences and delicacies, like the kebab, which is marinated meat cubes threaded on skewers, that later evolved into the local Malay delicacy, satay or sate. In later years, culinary influences brought about by western colonization, firstly by the Portuguese, then the Dutch and lastly by the British, added further variety and style to the local cuisines. Ikan Patin Masak Tempoyak is a popular traditional dish. Pahang food features a lot of seafood. From its rivers and lakes come the fresh water fish such as the patin fish (silver catfish).

Nasi Kebuli is another favourite from this region. The rice is cooked with coconut oil and chicken. Sometimes lamb or mutton is used instead of chicken. It is usually served during special occasions such as weddings, Maulidur Rasul and the opening or cleansing of a silat. Opor Daging is another traditional dish. The main ingredients of this dish are durian paste, chilli, lemongrass, tamarind paste, herbs, coconut milk and selection of river fish. Opor Daging or just plain "Opor" is a traditional dish of the people of Pahang especially in the ‘kampong’ (villages) around the Royal town of Pekan.
It is usually served during traditional Malay weddings and festivals, being a traditional delicacy dish of beef or mutton/lamb, and eaten with rice, the staple food of the Malays.
Opor Daging is normally served with plain white rice, but during weddings and other traditional occasions, it is part of the menu eaten with the nasi minyak.
At home, the Opor can also be eaten with white or brown bread, or with the local Indian roti canai or capati, or any cooked flour.
Conclusion
The true Malay traditional food, in my opinion, should be prepared using only local ingredients. The spices and herbs are grounded manually, the meals are cooked over ancient-styled oven or stove, stirred with traditional utensils, packed or served in tropical edible leaves, eaten using the hand, following Malay etiquette and table manners. In this modern world, some of traditional Malay food are indeed dying or have already been abandoned. It is up to the Malays themselves to uphold the tradition. One of the ways is to keep on asking your grandparents about the kind of Malay traditional food they ate when they were young. Also, to observe the rituals performed in some ceremonies which are very closely related to traditional food preparation.

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Morality

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Labour and Migration

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