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Abercrombie & Fitch - Tp

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國立暨南國際大學102學年度第1學期 國際策略管理

【Term Project - Proposal】

一、研究動機------------------P.2

二、公司簡介------------------P.2

三、公司願景與使命---------------P.3

四、目標客群定位----------------P.3

五. 公司名稱由來----------------P.3

六、品牌歷史與塑造---------------P.4

七、產品和服務-----------------P.4

八、財報分析------------------P.5

九、未來方向------------------P.6

十、結論--------------------P.6

十一、附錄-------------------P.7

一、研究動機
在世界成衣業的發展動向中,美國成衣市場扮演了一席之地。自2008年金融風暴之後,世界經濟進入不景氣的狀況,消費者對於消費方式的改變,使得成衣市場受到相當大的衝擊。以往採取大量製造、降低成本的生產模式,已不再合乎現代消費者的需求。
有別於其他業者,Abercrombie & Fitch (以下簡稱A&F)的目標客群鎖定「18歲到22歲,外貌與身材出眾的白人」,也堅持不賣大尺碼的衣服。商品定位在「休閒奢華」的運動服飾。此外,其廣告模特兒甚至店員全都是外貌出眾的年輕男女,一方面雖然成功的建立獨特的品牌文化,卻也招來許多批評和糾紛,其中包括種族歧視和員工待遇等問題,同為美國服飾品牌的Tommy Hilfiger就曾因為歧視華人而吃上官司,而2005年以前的蘋果也是強調市場區隔的經典個案。
但近年來,A&F積極在美國以外的地方開拓市場,甚至在亞洲開設分店。原先的品牌定位和市場區隔,似乎有了新的定位。而轉變背後的原因和過程以及未來的市場策略,包括消費者心態對於商品定位的影響等,成了我們主要研究的動機和方向。

二、公司簡介
A&F,美國休閒第一大牌,是當今年輕人最青睐的品牌,也是風靡美國大學生的品牌之一。1892年創立于美國紐約的A&F,已是美國本土的百年品牌,目前旗下共有Abercrombie & Fitch、Abercrombie Kids、Hollister、Gilly Hicks四個子品牌。
A&F的服裝在簡約的款式中做出有趣的創意設計,以高格調、高質量及超清新的美國街頭休閒風格為出發點,並站在年輕人的喜好角度,用音樂、運動及簡約款式來表現服裝的內涵,這樣的潮流由美加各地不斷漫延開來,深受歐美和亞洲青少年喜愛,其標誌性十足、誘惑力十足的美式形象風行全球,成為全球時尚的新指標。
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. (簡稱:A&F) | 創立時間及國家 | 1892年6月4日成立於美國紐約曼哈頓 | 代表人物 | David Abercrombie (大衛·亞伯克隆畢)─創立者Ezra Fitch (埃茲拉·費區)─共同創立者Michael Jeffries (麥克·傑佛瑞斯)─CEO兼總裁 | A&F公司總部 | 美國俄亥俄州新奧爾巴尼市 | 股票代號 | NYSE:ANF;為上市公司 | 產品類別 | 男、女休閒裝、運動裝、內衣 | 旗下四大品牌 | Abercrombie & Fitch、Abercrombie Kids、Hollister、Gilly Hicks | 公司網站 | www.abercrombie.com |
三、公司願景與使命
1.公司願景(vision):
A&F對所有利益關係人說明公司願景:
「品牌」是我們的生活方式,是我們關注的焦點,也是成長及與維繫顧客間的橋樑,並非短時間內就能達成成效。但當冠上A&F這個標籤,它可以幫助我們吸引來自全國各地最有才華的年輕人,使我們有能力發展、創造出無窮的增長機會以確保長期盈利能力,並且提升產品的內在價值,快速穩定的成長並提供方向,以回應消費者。

2.公司使命(mission):
A&F的使命側重於提供並推崇經典美式休閒生活方式的高品質商品。

四、目標客群定位
A&F旗下有四個子品牌 Abercrombie & Fitch、Abercrombie Kids、Hollister、Gilly Hicks分別針對不同年齡段的消費者: * Abercrombie & Fitch:針對18~22歲的大學生族群,A&F有逐年趨向成熟的味道。 * Abercrombie kids:針對9~14歲的孩子,是小孩版的Abercrombie & Fitch,適合小學及國中生。 * Hollister:針對14歲以上的年輕族群,其logo是隻海鷗(Seagull),以加州衝浪風格(California surf lifestyle)來定義品牌的內涵,以西岸海灘為主題。 * Gilly Hicks:針對16歲以上的女性,性感、休閒帶點奢華的風格特色,主要賣女性內衣及睡衣。
A&F的衣服有趣在於創意幾乎每季都在改變。A&F越來越流行,其昂貴的價格也是眾所周知,堪稱高級運動服,在美國如果身上穿著一件A&F,可以算是貴族的象徵。A&F衣服突顯胸、腰、臀完全貼身,性感不凡,帶動正宗美國版型領導潮流,是美國年輕人追逐的熱門品牌。在國際上,A&F屬於大眾品牌,但品牌定位是奢華休閒,展現一種令人嚮往的生活方式。

五. 公司名稱由來
A&F最初於1892年以創辦人David Abercrombie的名字將公司命名為Abercrombie Co.,並將店面設立於紐約市中心曼哈頓,專門爲特別的戶外運動愛好者提供優質的露營裝備、釣魚裝備和狩獵裝備。1904年,紐約一位出色的律師Ezra Fitch,加入了Abercrombie Co.,並成爲合夥人,極具行銷才能的Fitch 重新將品牌名稱定爲「Abercrombie & Fitch」,刻意讓名字冗長、難念又難記,聽起來很饒舌很酷,這就是A&F公司名稱由來。

A&F標識是一隻長著巨角的麋鹿,是因為先前創辦人David Abercrombie經營的事業為登山、露營、打獵等相關用具的公司,有著打獵的背景,故以麋鹿作為A&F的象徵標誌。大家喜歡直接叫簡稱:A&F,或者用A&F的暱稱:小麋鹿。

六、品牌歷史與塑造
A&F的歷史橫跨19、20和21三個世紀。1892年創辦人David T. Abercrombie在曼哈頓創立成立了一間專賣高級運動用品的商店,名為Abercrombie Co.。當時律師 Ezra H. Fitch 是此品牌的常客,於1900年離開了任職的律師事務所,入股了這家公司,成為主要股東之一,並列名成為共同創辦人,其後Fitch搬遷店面至百老匯,進行了店面改裝,於1904年將Fitch姓氏加入到品牌名稱之後,成為現今大家熟悉的Abercrombie & Fitch Co.,但Abercrombie與Fitch的合作對於A&F的經營走向有了不同的意見,Abercrombie堅持初衷,希望遵照過去定位為高級的戶外服飾,專賣運動及戶外用品服飾,令獵人及漁夫等戶外活動熱愛者所喜愛,特別著名的是其昂貴的戶外露宿與狩獵用具。但Fitch則希望發展一般大眾性的商品,他們產生了意見上的分歧,1907年Abercrombie將公司賣給了Fitch,自行成立其他品牌專營戶外運動用品,Fitch則繼續經營A&F。
此後A&F在經營上持續性地成長,Fitch退休後,公司在其他人的經營上也有很好的成績,但於1960年代末期開始發生財務困難,1977年宣告破產關閉,中間幾度易手,皆無法使A&F起死回生,直到 1988年由全美有名的Victoria Secret隸屬的The Limited Inc.集團購併A&F,重新規劃公司定位與包裝,將全數商品刪至只剩服飾,並以集團經營Victoria Secret的fashion sense重新定位A&F風格,將品牌形象定位在年輕人的casual wear,在保有原有戶外形象下,大幅改造原有的服裝剪裁,但卻也一反傳統美式casual wear的寬鬆,改走有線條與修飾感的曲線,使其產品產生年輕的時尚感。此外,A&F也在國外設置多家服飾分店(附錄圖一),門市風格為年輕化的商店裝潢與設計擺設,並融入五感體驗更加凸顯品牌差異。對於A&F如此大幅的改造,目標就是為了瞄準18~22歲年輕人的顧客推行品牌,A&F也因而從1988年逐步發展,成為今日眾所皆知的高級美式休閒品牌。

七、產品和服務
A&F是打造美國風的年輕人服飾品牌,主要販售的產品男女性都有,從上衣、牛仔褲、外套、手飾、拖鞋等等,每個品牌會有符合各自特色的特殊的商品。在價格上,長袖上衣和牛仔褲的一件的價格約在50美元到100美元間,每件短袖的服飾價位較低,約在50美元左右。
A&F結合古典和性感,是帶有奢侈、隨性流行風的品牌,Abercrombie kids則帶點調皮的風格,兩者服飾風格和類別相似度高。在女性衣服的裝飾上,都偶爾會有閃亮的小水鑽,當作裝飾品,在外套上設計,以防滑、防風的外套的為主,衣服上可見細心的小設計,例如可以擺上智慧型手機的外套內裡,還有留洞讓耳機線可以從那裡穿過,方便顧客聽音樂。這兩個品牌在宣傳照上,常會有狗當陪襯。除了服飾、飾品、鞋子之外,也有自己的沐浴乳、和每瓶約50美元的香水。Gilly Hicks是美國風格但帶有雪梨感覺的品牌,只以年輕女性為顧客,販售可愛的內衣褲、運動服飾和睡衣,在化妝品方面,也有口紅、香水。Holliste則是來自加州陽光海灘,以海邊和陽光為主題,年輕又帶有幽默感的風格品牌。
在門市設計方面,Hollister以美國夜店風格為主軸,店內音樂及燈光特地設計成音量大聲、昏暗燈光的氛圍。而A&F店面,則會有赤膊著上身的猛男(附錄圖二),站在門口歡迎客人,在離開店前,可以免費和帥氣模特兒合拍一張立可拍,模特兒每個都是精挑細選,身體線條鮮明,又加上低腰褲,服務每位女生的眼睛。店內的擺設也較陰暗,每家店面都有一定有其招牌-麋鹿頭,環境肆意充斥著特有的香水味和動感的音樂,店員皆是俊男與美女。
而網路服務方面,在A&F的網頁中,每個品牌皆有特定男女模特兒穿搭當季新品,網站上會仔細地將模特兒身上每件服飾的材質、價格、尺寸、顏色款式進行說明,此外A&F的網站使用大量且細膩的動畫和設計,讓顧客在觀看服飾的同時,可以利用滑鼠點選,將特定部位放大或選擇觀看著裝後模特兒的側面、正面和背面,而在每件服飾特殊設計的部分,也都會有動畫加強說明,方便顧客克服虛擬障礙,清楚觀看及了解服飾的每個細節(附錄圖三)。

八、財報分析 (附錄圖四)
從財報中我們可以看到,從2008年的總銷貨收入$3,484,058,000逐年成長至2012年的$4,510,805,000,成長相當快速,淨收益部分從2008年$272,255,000到2009年只剩下$254,000,嚴重萎縮,不過從2009年後就穩定且快速的成長,直至2012年已達到$237,011,000,可見公司有在穩定的成長;另外,在評估公司是否有足夠的成長動能時,公司手上的可用現金是非常重要的,若持有現金過少時則要擔心公司是否會週轉不靈,而A&F的現金流自2008年的$123,429,000一直逐年增加至2012年的$344,309,000,因此可以預期公司的營運應該不會有太大的問題。而從股東權益部分可以看到2008年為$1,845,578,000,而2009~2011年皆高於2008年,但是2012年股東權益減少至$1,818,268,000,達到了5年來的最低,雖然對比2008年到2012年資產部分稍微減少,但若從2009年來看,A&F可以說是逐年快速的成長,由於股東權益從2009年到2012年都一直大幅減少,因此ROE也從2009年的0%逐年成長至2012年的13%,雖仍不及2008年的16%,但四年來也成長良多,而且現金流充沛,隨時可以轉為投資的資金,未來發展看俏。單從財報中,可以看出A&F的基本面健康,並且一直維持不錯的成長,屬於可以投資的公司,但是未來公司在亞洲地區的布局若是成效不彰,則應該重新評估公司的投資價值以及風險。

九、未來方向
A&F認為消費者的店內體驗是一個品牌與消費者最主要的溝通管道,A&F重視店內消費者的視覺、聽覺、嗅覺、觸覺等的體驗,所以不論是門市人員銷售、家具、裝潢、香水、音樂等氛圍,都是為了呈現理想生活的樣貌,因此未來在服務顧客時,銷售人員和管理人員依然會持續傳達一種休閒、充滿活力和理想的品牌態度。而每個品牌的店面設計和商品的介紹都將標準化的呈現,除了能讓公司有效的開新的店面,也確保一致的店內體驗。
未來A&F將會致力於海外擴張以求成長,在2013年的海外擴張計畫中,將在首爾和上海開設A&F的旗艦店,其中約有20家為國際Hollister的店面。在澳洲與杜拜也會進駐Hollister的店面,成為澳洲與中東境內第一家A&F旗艦店,接下來更會透過合資進入日本市場。而在未來的12個月內A&F有可能會開放國際商場的A&F的專賣店。而關於2013年的海外擴張計畫,A&F預估資本開支約為200萬美元,拓點開業前的成本約3,000萬美元。

十、結論
A&F的行銷策略在於將目標市場集中鎖定在重視自我形象、追求流行趨勢的年輕客群,藉由鮮明的產品設計、價格以及品牌形象等特性之定位,加上持續性的產品創新以及時尚風氣的帶動下,讓顧客充分感受到其品牌的獨特性並產生認同,進而提升產品在顧客心目中的內在價值。A&F的成功之處在於,除了回應及滿足顧客內心的需求外,同時也將自身品牌所隱含的文化、理念傳達給顧客,自成一股領導、形塑顧客的時尚潮流;此外品牌的推廣最終也會促成人才的匯入,因而創造內部創新的可能。
近年來,A&F逐漸向亞洲市場開展,面對國家間、甚至區域內不同的市場結構、文化等差異,除了投資風險外,A&F更應關注的是如何打開市場,畢竟考量到未來市場成長可能停滯甚至萎縮,所以應持續尋找新的成長契機,如何重新建立一群足以支持市顧客佔有率的忠誠消費客群成為關鍵,A&F應進行更多的市場分析,藉由經驗移轉或試銷等方式進行試誤與修正,以求掌握更精確的環境訊息及外在資源,如了解顧客及供應鏈屬性,進而達成最可行的策略配適。

十一、附錄 * 附圖
圖一.A&F全球據點及數量

圖二.店門口的猛男模特兒宣傳

圖三.網站產品資訊的詳細說明
圖四.財務摘要
(二)參考資料

◎公司簡介、公司願景與使命、目標客群定位、公司名稱由來 http://www.99brand.com/stories/fashion/AbercrombieFitch.htm http://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-tw/Abercrombie_%26_Fitch http://www.html-1.com.tw/article-59.html https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?id=527614907281119&story_fbid=530034273705849 http://retailindustry.about.com/od/retailbestpractices/ig/Company-Mission-Statements/Abercrombie---Fitch-Mission-Statement.htm http://www.abercrombie.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreView?catalogId=10901&langId=-1&storeId=11203

◎歷史與品牌塑造 http://www.europefashion.com.tw/index.php?pid=29&theme=CompleteUnderstand http://baike.baidu.com/view/764298.htm

◎產品和服務 http://history.n.yam.com/yam/international/20130517/20130517486668.html http://www.anfcareers.com/Page/model http://www.abercrombie.com/shop/wd/mens-hooded-a-and-f-weather-warrior http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgtogRobQE http://www.anfcareers.com/ http://njitjerry.pixnet.net/blog/post/27382804-abercrombie-%26-fitch-%E7%B4%90%E7%B4%84%E5%B8%82%E6%97%97%E8%89%A6%E5%BA%97-

◎財報分析、未來方向
https://www.google.com.tw/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CD4QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fphx.corporate-ir.net%2FExternal.File%3Fitem%3DUGFyZW50SUQ9NDk5MzUwfENoaWxkSUQ9NTM5MTE2fFR5cGU9MQ%3D%3D%26t%3D1&ei=IH1LUrKBN4nhkAW3jIDoBw&usg=AFQjCNFCHN33kzC1pky2wXOJo24sK-xvyg&sig2=GxjhXLbZWdeCu8W6oWLlCw

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...Abercrombie's Ruehl NO. 925 Abercrombie & Fitch Company was founded in 1892 in New York City by David T Abercrombie and Ezra H. Fitch. Abercrombie, a former prospector, miner, trapper, and railroad surveyor, originally produced camping equipment in lower Manhattan; Fitch, one of his customers, was a successful lawyer in Kingston, New York, who loved the outdoors. The two men put their interests and opened a sporting goods store. By 1910, the company began selling women clothing, and became the first store in New York to supply clothing to women as well as men. Abercrombie & Fitch Company is a clothing retailer marketed toward the young people, from children to young adults. Abercrombie considers its clothing a "lifestyle brand," others have railed against its often sexually explicit tees and over-the-top marketing campaigns. The company oversees more than 800 stores nationwide, of which about 175 are its children's brand, abercrombie, and 260 are Hollister Company stores. Its latest in a concept, Ruehl, debuted in Ohio in 2004 appealing to more mature buyers. Abercrombie & Fitch is following a differentiated marketing strategy that appeals to the four target markets: Abercrombie Kids is geared for (7 to 14 year olds), Hollister targets (14 to 18 year olds), Abercrombie & Fitch aims for (18 to 22 year olds), Ruehl NO. 925 (22 to 35 year olds). Differentiated marketing aims at two or more distinct consumer groups, with different retailing approaches for each...

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