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Connections

“Fashions fade; style is eternal” - Yves Saint-Laurent
Although Yves Saint-Laurent has made made millions in the fashion industry and is a household name, I respectfully disagree. I don't think fashions truly ever really fade. There is always something “coming back in style.” There is one particular style that never really seemed to go away and is still prominent in 21st century high fashion. Greek style dresses have endured the test of time and have become a bit of a staple of modern fashion. The early Greeks made the peplos style famous, but European influence called it the “Empire Waist”; dresses that were long and loose fitting but gathered under the bust. Today, modern wedding dresses are almost always made with some version of an empire waist, and New York Fashion Week's catwalks are littered with remnants of Greek style. No offense to Mr. Saint-Laurent.
A peplos is a full-length Greek garment worn by women before 500 BCE. The cloth was manufactured as a tube of fabric that was folded inside out from the top down, then gathered at the waist and fastened at the shoulders in either a strap or with pins. The top of the tube draped down to the waist giving the appearance of a second piece of material. A similar style that would have been worn by both men and women was a chiton[1]. The chiton was a heavier garment made of wool or linen and was held on with a fibula, which was an ancient Greek brooch.[2] Men's styles of chitons were either knee length, or body length based on the status, age, and profession of the individual, and were often worn with a cloak called a himation. The chiton was the outfit of Aphrodite because of how feminine it was considered, even though men also wore it, and Dionysus was often pictured wearing this garb. A chiton can also be seen on the Charioteer of Delphi.[3]
This style of garment was seen again in the First French Empire, which is where we get the term “Empire-waist.” The Empire-waist style was popular with pear shaped women who wished to hide their stomachs or emphasize their bust line. Women were much more appreciative of a curvy figure than our modern culture is, however, the a-line shape was considered the most appealing. The shape of the dress helps to lengthen the appearance of the body as well, making the wearer look taller, evening out the proportions. This look was made popular again in Britain by Lady Hamilton in the 1790's. Lady Hamilton, Emma, designed such garments for her performances of poses.[4] Emma can be seen in more than a dozen George Romney paintings wearing the fashionable high-waisted dresses of the upper class. Fittingly, in 1786, Lady Hamilton was painted depicting Ariadne, the daughter of King Minos of Crete. The French called the style “à la grecque” because of the decorations they found on Greek urns.[5] During the period of 1795-1820, it became acceptable for women of middle and upper-classes to wear clothing that was less cumbersome and be considered “decent”, helping the Grecian-Roman style to reach a peak. Later, in the 1920's, the flapper style was designed after Empire-waist styled dresses in Greek and Roman iconography.
In designer shows and magazines of modern day fashion, the Greek style endures. British brand, Marchesa is known for having high-waisted, flowing gowns, which have caught the eye of several well known female celebrities. Actresses such as Sandra Bullock, Halle Berry, and Kate Hudson have hit the red carpet wearing Marchesa gowns so Grecian-inspired you would think they stepped right out of the Parthenon. Even royalty has gone Greek. Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, was recently seen at a charity event wearing a very Greek style Jenny Packham silk dress. Jean Dessès was a world renowned fashion designer from the 1940's through the 1960's, whose designs reflected the influences of his travels and specialized in creating evening gowns made of chiffon and mousseline, based on early Greek and Egyptian robes.
The peplos style can be seen clearly in these modern fashions. Both have very flowing body-length fabrics, and most are even secured with a belt in a similar way. Wedding dresses have also seen some Greek style influence in recent years. Sola Cafasso is a designer who specializes in Greek-style wedding gowns, promising the goddess look for less. Coincidentally, we as a society put a lot of time, effort, and often times, money into the wedding dress. In Greek history, the priestess of Athena Polias had a sacred peplos which took a group of girls nine months to make.[6]
The Greeks had it right when they designed the styles we still use today. Although there are very few, if any, models walking around in actual peplos or chitons, the influences are seen in just about every era of high fashion. The British and French adopted the high-waists and even renamed the style themselves. Lady Hamilton made the Greek-influenced Empire-waist popular by posing in paintings wearing the style. Then, in America, we adopted a similar style adapting it into the flapper dresses of the roaring 20's. Movie stars, royalty, and even the middle class of modern civilization have donned some very Greek inspired outfits. Will the next generations appreciate the flattering styles the Greeks designed? Does fashion really fade? I have high hopes that Yves Saint-Laurent was right about at least one thing. Style is eternal.

---------------------------------
[ 1 ]. Roman Life, Greek Dress. 2012. KET. 8th April, 2012. http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/romanlife/greekdress.htm
[ 2 ]. Wikipedia. 2012. Yarwood, Doreen. 8th April, 2012. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibula_(brooch)
[ 3 ]. Charioteer of Delphi. 2003. Ancient-Greece.org 7th April, 2012. http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/romanlife/greekdress.htm
[ 4 ]. Nelson & Lady Hamilton: A Very Public Affair. 2012. Williams, Dr. Kate. 7Th, April 2012. http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/empire_seapower/nelson_emma_01.shtml
[ 5 ]. French Fashions. 2012. Lacroix, Paul. 5th April, 2012. http://www.americanrevolution.org/clothing/frenchfashion.html
[ 6 ]. Peplos. 2012. Wikipedia. 8th April, 2012. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peplos

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