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Diesel Jeans

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Diesel Report

The research initially focused on international denim brands (Levi’s, Pepe jeans, Diesel and Kuyichi), among them Diesel is the less sustainable so Fantastic 5 as a group investigated how this brand could be more sustainable and gain more transparency.

Here a brief introduction of the brand.
Diesel is an Italian clothing brand founded in 1978 by Renzo Rosso. Diesel started focusing on making high-quality jeans but now it offers a wide range of clothing, accessories, shoes, sunglasses and perfumes.
The company is present in over 80 countries with over 5,000 points of sale and more than 300 monobrand stores (200 of which are company-owned and the rest in partnership with local distributors).

It has become a symbol of the youth culture worldwide, from a work cloth to a high fashion item.
Since the beginning of his career in the fashion industry Renzo Rosso, CEO’s company, aimed to be a leader, he entered the US market when Levi’s was the giant of blue jeans worldwide. He wanted a company that took chances and carved out a niche for itself in its field. He started employing creative and talented people, welcoming international students to enrich the company of different background. He wanted to create the most dynamic and imaginative product available anywhere: he gave his open-minded design team broad stylistic freedom, and their mission was to create an apparel line perfect for independent people. Diesel target is 18-35 age person, fashionable but not victim of the fashion-system.

SUPPLY CHAIN AND COMPANY CREDIBILITY.

Fantastic 5 Recommendation for Diesel:

1. A GREEN SUPPLY CHAIN: achieving a more sustainable design, rethinking a traditional process, find a way to do it better.

2. Reducing the environmental impact of clothes cleaning

There is no trace of Diesel supply chain, collaboration with Fair Trade organizations, NGOs (except for Only the Brave Association) or use of eco-friendly materials/techniques.

In order to raise credibility for this issue Diesel should review its supply chain taking as a model sustainable denim brands.

Levi’s with its Levi’s Water <Less jeans is a good example, it approaches a new production process, first of all reducing the water consumption in the finishing process by making simple changes to the process, including:

1. A reduction in the number of washing machine cycles by combining multiple wet cycle processes into a single wet process, 
 2. Incorporation of ozone processing into the garment washing, and 
 3. Removal of the water from the stone wash.

The company counts to make more 1.5 million pairs of those jeans in the 2011 product line, so that water savings should total about 16 million litres, a huge achievement!

Even though the brand proposed strong marketing campaign about environmental issues (e.g. Global Warming campaign) among other denim brands Diesel is less sustainable.

The environmental impacts involved in the manufacture of clothing vary significantly.
An inquiry, conducted by Altroconsumo, an Italian non-profit consumer association, on the social responsibility of the most important denim brands and clothing retailer made some chemical tests on one model of jeans for each brand (chosen through a market research). Analysis focused on the most dangerous chemical substances: heavy metals, carcinogenic, pesticides, solvents, and substances causing allergies. The inquiry revealed that the majority of the jeans don’t contain these substances. Here a list of the results EXAMPLES OF GOOD, ACCEPTABLE AND BAD “SUBSTAINABLE” JEANS Good DIESEL Model: Safado wash 0073 P/0074 F G-STAR Raw: 3301 Victor straight Rider wash Art. 50481.2793.1523 G-S 5677669 HUGO Boss: Orange 31 Everyday Regular Fit used look Art.Nr 50186402 / 10138089 / 01 / 420 JACK & JONES: Clark Vintage JOS 217 120 356 73 SALSA: life / Low waist Article-Nr. OTTO & Baur: 432675 Style: 911136990110210, wash ABCQR ZARA JEANS: Low waist Slim Fit 003 5575/333/406 Acceptable LEE JEANS: Powell low slim L704OBDK LEVI’S: 501 - 00501.0114 - 519595 DENIM BY H&M (H&M) &ORIGINAL: Regular Waist Straight Leg 057704 2 3734 763

Bad WRANGLER
W121-33-010 stonewash Texas stretch regular fit

The aim of the inquiry has been also to verify working conditions and attention to environmental standard procedures; access to company information and working place had a crucial importance.
Unfortunately 5 brands have not accepted to show the factories where jeans are produced, among them Diesel, Wrangler, and Lee jeans.

Zara and H&M have had the highest score for consumer information (easiness of access to company data), transparency (public company information, collaboration for survey) and company policy.

Why Diesel did not accept this kind of visit in its own factories?
The company gave no justification, but a dangerous practise that Diesel continues to use could be one of the answers: the sandblasting, a process that is used to soften and lighten jeans and create that worn-in look.

An article from “ The Telegraph”, published the 20th March 2011, announces how Top chains are urged to ban sandblasted jeans. Asda, Diesel, Matalan and Primark are among a group of companies being criticised for selling jeans made using sandblasting, which can cause illness or even death.

This article claims how denim companies can continue to use this technique, Diesel said it would stop using sandblasting on its clothing from early next year.

In the US, sandblasting is only allowed when the sand used contains less than 0.5% silica and in the EU, the material may only contain up to 1% silica. However, the majority of denim sandblasting today takes place in other countries where labour standards are not very strongly enforced, Bangladesh, Egypt, China, Cambodia and Mexico. (laborrightsblog)

The deadly effects of silica in the denim industry were first noticed in Turkey, where the sand used contains up to 80% silica, this practice caused Silicosis, a fatal, incurable lung disease, after the death of thousands of workers this manual practise has been banned but the government.

Avoiding this dangerous practise would improve the company image and credibility.

Moreover, we believe Diesel has to work environmental policy and labour conditions in order to provide transparency for consumers as there is any information in Diesel website so far. Reducing the environmental impact of Clothes Cleaning is the main objective of Fantastic 5 Campaign For Diesel. 1. http://www.defra.gov.uk/publications/files/pb13461-clothing-actionplan-110518.pdf Diesel should start examining production processes and the impact on the environment, also the clothing lifecycle has high environmental impacts, there is further potential for improvement beyond existing interventions. Environmental impacts of clothes cleaning are significant with energy consumption and associated ghg emissions from the heating of water (washer) and air (dryer) often quoted as approximately 80% of the use phase energy impacts. Eutrophication and other toxicity impacts due to washing detergents are the other significant impacts. Taking into account consumer behaviour and societal trends, the project (The Road Map Process) found that the best options to reduce the impacts of clothes cleaning would be through awareness campaigns and regulatory/ legislative interventions.

Only the Brave Association is a NGOs, founded by Renzo Rosso in 2008, it aims to mobilize and empower youth to end poverty, supports projects on economic development, education and health sectors in disadvantaged communities.

2. http://www.looktothestars.org/news/3740-diesel-founder-gives-to-wyclef-jeans-y-le-haiti-foundation

Renzo Rosso donated $250,000 to the Yéle Haiti Foundation. This donation benefited specifically the victims of Haiti’s earthquake.
Through Yéle Haiti, Wyclef, Grammy-Award winning musician, producer and social uses music, sports and media to reinforce projects that are making a difference in education, health, environment and community development. In practical terms this translates to over 3,000 new jobs, close to 7,000 children being put in school, more than 8,000 people per month receiving food and approximately 2,000 young people per month learning about HIV/AIDS prevention.

One of the first green headquarter in Italy has been strongly wanted by Renzo Rosso. The new Diesel headquarters has been built in Breganze. The idea behind the building is reconciliation of the site with the client’s request for a built organism that would underline the company’s personality and provide the pleasant, functional, innovative workspaces typical of a “great placetowork”.
The new Diesel headquarter manages to combine environmental sustainability, health for workers offering wide spaces to socialize and do some sports.

http://www.cotton247.com/supplychain/textiles/?storyid=1786

http://laborrightsblog.typepad.com/international_labor_right/2011/02/killer-jeans-sandblasting-and-fashion-victims-.html

Full text in English and images at: http://www.carron.it/files/download/ARKETIPO-PROGETTARE.pdf

Video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl4Cg4xjynw

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