Free Essay

DöNer Kebab

In: Other Topics

Submitted By financegroup
Words 363
Pages 2
Die Zubereitung von Fleisch am Drehspieß hat in Anatolien eine lange Tradition, auch das Servieren von Grillfleisch im Fladenbrot. So schrieb Helmuth von Moltke, seinerzeit Militärberater des Osmanischen Reiches, am 16. Juni 1836 in sein Tagebuch:

„Unser Mittagsmahl nahmen wir ganz türkisch beim Kiebabtschi ein. […] Dann erschien auf einer hölzernen Scheibe der Kiebab oder kleine Stückchen Hammelfleisch, am Spieß gebraten und in Brotteig eingewickelt, ein sehr gutes, schmackhaftes Gericht.“[2][3]

Dieser Şiş Kebap wurde aber noch auf einem üblichen horizontalen Grill zubereitet. Etwas später soll ein Koch namens Hamdi in Kastamonu erstmals geschichtetes Fleisch an einem senkrecht stehenden Spieß gegrillt haben.[4] Sein Rezept wurde über mehrere Generationen seiner Lehrlinge weitergegeben. Danach wird in feine Scheiben geschnittenes Hammelfleisch etwa einen Tag lang in einer gründlich durchgewalkten Mischung aus feingeschnittenen Zwiebeln, Salz, Pfeffer, scharfem Paprika und Kreuzkümmel mariniert und anschließend in konischer Form auf den Spieß gesteckt – zuunterst das Fleisch aus der Keule, dann das Kammfleisch und schließlich das Filet. Der Grill war aus Ziegeln und Lehm aufgemauert und wurde mit Eichenholzkohle betrieben. Unter dem Spieß befand sich eine zweilagige Schaufel. Im oberen, gelöcherten Teil sammelte sich das abgeschnittene Fleisch, im unteren Fleischsaft und Fett. Serviert wurde dieser „Urdöner“ mit einer Mischung aus Petersilie und Zwiebeln, auf Wunsch ergänzt um Reis und Beilagen wie Tomaten, Gurken, Rettich und Peperoni.

Etwa 25 Jahre später wurde der Döner möglicherweise unabhängig davon in Bursa noch einmal erfunden. Der Koch İskender, Gründer eines nach ihm benannten Restaurants, verarbeitete einen Teil des Hammelfleischs zu Hackfleisch und schichtete es zwischen weichgeklopfte Fleischscheiben. Er servierte das gegrillte Fleisch mit Joghurt und zerlassener Butter auf einer Lage geschnittenem Fladenbrot, bekannt als İskender Kebap. In Bursa soll auch der Name „Döner Kebap“ gebildet worden sein.

Ob Hamdi bzw. İskender tatsächlich die Erfinder des senkrechten Fleischspießes waren, ist jedoch unsicher. Sehr ähnliche Gerichte sind das arabische Schawarma aus Rindfleisch und das griechische Gyros aus Schweinefleisch, die ebenfalls an einem senkrecht stehenden Drehspieß gebraten werden.

In Istanbul wurde Dönerkebab seit den 1940er Jahren angeboten – jedoch nur in sehr wenigen Restaurants, eines davon im Topkapı-Palast. Seit Mitte der 1960er Jahre war es auch in Büfes, Imbisslokalen, im Straßenverkauf erhältlich, schon damals im Fladenbrot.

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