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Project Description Company Name: Status: Type: Managing Director: Product Mix: 100% cotton, 100% polyester a) Spun b) Filament Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton blend Gray mélange (15% Viscose 85% cotton 10% Viscose 90% cotton 30% Viscose 70% cotton) Ash mélange (1% Viscose 99% cotton) Year of establishment: Project Cost: Turnover: Production capacity: 1993 About 1500 core TAKA About 100 crore TAKA/year - Knitting: 22 tons/day (Average) - Dyeing: 20 ton/day (Average) - Garments: 60000 pcs/day Main Production: Basic T-Shirt, Tank top, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Shorts, Hoody, Ladies & Kids Knitwear all kinds of knit Garments & Knit fabrics. Epyllion Group Private Company 100% Export oriented knit composite Industry. Riaz uddin al Mamun

Major buyers :

Mark & Spencer (M&S), G-Star, Celio, C&A

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Address: Factory: Epyllio n Knit t ex & Epyllio n St yle Lt d. Jangaliapara, Banglabazar, Joydebpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh Plot # I/1, Road # 06, Section # 07, Mirpur I/A, Dhaka-1216. Bangladesh Tel: +880-2-9006028, 9006747, 9013897, Fax # 880-2-9007978, 9016994,

Corporate office:

Website:

www.epylliongroup.com

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History through time In the whole animal kingdom, only human being needs garment. Bengal Cotton Fabrics used to be exported to the Roman and Chinese empires as mentioned in Ptolemy's Geography and the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, and by the ancient Chinese travelers. Dhaka Muslin, a very finely woven cotton fabric, become a brand name in textile industry and attracted foreign buyers during the Mughal era of Bengal. Today's Muslin is a different fabric altogether; the art is all but lost. Nakshi Kantha, the embroidered quilt said to be indigenous to Bangladesh.

Historical background of 'Epyllion Group' The renowned and obliterated industry assumed its new appearance as garments in 1980s. Epyllion Group within a brief time of its inception in 1994 secured a remarkable position in the emerging industry of Ready Made Garments. Beginning only with 2 sewing lines and total of 200 workforces at Mirpur, Dhaka, Epyllion Group has new swelled up with 8000 workforce with 78 sewing lines in several locations of Dhaka and Gazipur.

Brief description of Epyllion Group EPYLLION' is a house of Readymade Garments and engaged in manufacturing and exporting of knit Apparels since1994. The Organization is a well structured one and manned by a group of trained and professional managers at every level of management.

The management of the group is vested with a team of professionals under direct supervision of the Managing Director, Executive Director, General Managers, Factory and Production Managers, Departmental Heads for each section, marketing, Administrative and a Production team of 1,075 skilled and semi skilled workers. A team of qualified persons is assigned to check vigorously if the elements involved in the process to meet the international standards. Computerization and Automation in the different departments of Garments and Fabric manufacturing process with computer aided designing, digital color matching and communication make the process accurate and eliminate the possible human error.

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The philosophy of continuous development through R & D in the laboratories, designing section equipped with instruments from Data Color USA a computer aided cutting m/c and pattern making instruments/software form Assyst Bullmer and Embroidery (Wilcom Software) are the main strength of the sampling and product development of Epyllion.

'EPYLLION GROUP' MEMBERS 'Epyllion Group' is mainly a house of Readymade Garments (RMG), engaged in manufacturing and exporting of Knit Apparels since 1994. The 'GROUP' Members are:

TEXTILE INDUSTRIES Epyllion Knitex Ltd. Epyllion Fabrics Ltd. GARMENTS INDUSTRIES Epyllion Style Ltd. Epyllion Knitwears Ltd. Unit 1 & 2 Mirabella Dresses Ltd. Dekko Knitwears Ltd. Unit 1 & 2 Dazzling Dresses Ltd.

GARMENTS ACCESSORIES Epyllion Limited Epyllion Washing Ltd. REAL ESTATE Nina Holdings Ltd.

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VISION They envision emerging as a strongest and most modern composite Ready Made Garments industry through synchronization of human, financial and technological resources.

MISSION To provide best production of high quality garments in a consistent and high reliable manner, to achieve complete customer satisfaction and best value for money.

OUR VALUE  Ensure quality improvement.  Innovation by embracing creativity and change.  Employees by demonstrating respect and consideration for each other.  Teamwork by fostering trust and recognition.  Social responsibility by caring for and sharing with each other.  Culture of learning is built on leadership, teamwork, and accountability.

CODE OF CONDUCT AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Our aim is to meet the needs and wishes of our buyers while maintaining and improving quality. We are fully aware of our responsibilities to our customers, our employee, to the community, the society, the nation and the environment. We are taking all steps to ensure that our factories are: 1. Compliant with social standards stipulated in BD

2. Safety and health precautions are fully looked into. 3. Local environment standards are met. 4. Dignity of labor and human rights are upheld.

AIMS Epyllion Group aims to be the best knitted garment manufacturing and exporting company. We continuously incorporate the latest technological advances in manufacturing processes to ensure that our esteemed customers receive top-of-line quality products. Our objective is to be the pioneer in implementing new manufacturing technologies, which translate into an even superior product for our customers.

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Frequent changes in fashion trends make it imperative for suppliers to deliver newer styles quickly to their customers. Understanding the need for timely delivery we always aim to provide our customers an efficient and satisfying service. At Epyllion Group, Expect nothing but the best. We aim to make our operations transparent to our customers.

Objectives of Epyllion Group: Epyllion‘s objective is to meet the needs and wishes of our buyers while maintaining and improving quality. Epyllion Group is fully aware of their responsibilities to their customers, our employee, to the community, the society, the nation and the environment. Epyllion Group is taking all steps to ensure that their factories are:Compliant with social standards stipulated in Bangladesh. Safety and health precautions are fully looked into. Local environment standards are met. Dignity of labor and human rights are upheld.

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Factory Location S

W N E
Epyllion Knittex Ltd. PARTEX Beverage Amber Cotton Epyllion Style Ltd.
Coats Bangladesh Kona Bari

PARTEX Denim

Penus Ltd

BRAC Office

From Dhaka

To Mymansingh

Salna Bridge

Shiv Bari

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Epyllion Group contains a no. of departments and each department is controlled by a manager. The board of directors maintains control on overall departments. Epyllion Group possesses a strong management system and all the activities are done in efficient way and in a systematic process.

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They have an experienced team of industry leaders who understand the market place, their customers, and what it takes to successfully operate successful Knitting, Dying and Garmen

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Management system:  Intercom telephone  Fax  E-mail  Written letters  Oral Shift change: Epyllion Knitex maintain three shifts at every day‗s work. So the shifts are changed at every eight hours. The shifting times are – A Shift – 06:00 – 14:00 B Shift – 14:00 – 22:00 C Shift – 22:00 – 06:00 General shift & Office time: 09.00 – 18.00 Epyllion Style maintains a general shift at everyday: 08.00- 17.0

Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer: 1. To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for the smooth running of the section. 2. To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production process. 3. To match production sample with target shade. 4. To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production. 5. To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process. 6. To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action. 7. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary. 8. To sign the store requisition and delivery challan in the absence of PM 9. To execute the overall floor work. 10. To maintain loading/ unloading paper.

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Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer: 1. Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. 2. Batch preparation and pH check. 3. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check. 4. Write loading / unloading time from machine. 5. Program making, sample checking, color measurement. 6. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. 7. Any other work as and when required

Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (Production): 1. Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. 2. Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing. 3. Check the different log books in different areas and report to management. 4. Check the plan to control the best output. 5. To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. 6. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. 7. Maintenance the machinery and equipments. 8. Any other work as and when required.

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MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF KNITTING SECTION (EKL) Circular Knitting Machine (S/J): Total no of M/C: 11 M/C No 01 02 03 Brand name Well Knit Well Knit Well Knit PAOLO ORIZIO PAOLO ORIZIO PAOLO ORIZIO Well Knit PAOLO ORIZIO PAOLO ORIZIO PAOLO ORIZIO PAOLO ORIZIO Origin Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Dia in inch 32 32 32 Gauge 24 24 24 No of feeder 96 96 96

04

Taiwan

30

28

90

05

Taiwan

30

28

90

06

Taiwan

30

28

90

07

Taiwan

32

24

96

08

Taiwan

30

28

90

09

Taiwan

30

28

90

10

Taiwan

30

28

90

11

Taiwan

30

28

90

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Circular Knitting Machine (Rib/Interlock): Total no of M/C: 10 M/C No Brand name Origin Dia in inch Gauge No of feeder

12

PAOLO ORIZIO

Taiwan

30

24

72

13 14 15

Terrot Terrot PAOLO ORIZIO

Germany Germany Taiwan

34 34 30

24 24 24

122 122 72

16

PAOLO ORIZIO

Taiwan

30

24

72

17 18 19

Terrot Terrot PAOLO ORIZIO

Germany Germany Taiwan

36 36 30

9 18 18

66 66 60

20

PAOLO ORIZIO

Taiwan

30

18

60

21

PAOLO ORIZIO

Taiwan

30

18

60

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Flat Bed Knitting Machine: Total no of M/C: 08 M/C No 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Brand name STOLL STOLL JY-LEH JY-LEH JY-LEH JY-LEH JY-LEH JY-LEH Origin Germany Germany Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Gauge 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14

Inspection table M/C No 01 Brand Name ALMAC Origin India

MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF KNITTING SECTION (EFL) Circular Knitting Machine (S/J): Total no of M/C: 58

M/C No Brand name 1 2 3 4 well knit well knit well knit well knit

Origin Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan

Dia in inch 30 30 30 30

Gauge 24 24 24 24

No of Feeder 90 90 90 90

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5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit

Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan

30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 34 34 34 30 30 30 32 30 30 28 30 30

24 20 28 24 20 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 24 24 24 24 24 28 20 20 24 28 24 24 20 20

90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 60 60 68 68 68 90 90 90 96 90 90 84 90 60

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37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58

well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit well knit

Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan

30 36 36 36 30 30 28 28 28 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 32 44

20 18 18 18 24 24 24 24 24 20 20 20 20 28 28 28 20 20 20 20 18 18

60 64 64 64 54 54 84 84 84 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 64 88

Circular Knitting Machine (Auto Stripe) Total no of M/C: 09 Origin Taiwan Germany Germany Germany No Feeder 42 48 48 48 of

M/C No 1 2 3 4

Brand name well knit Mayer & Cie Mayer & Cie Mayer & Cie

Dia in inch 30 30 30 30

Gauge 24 24 24 24

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5 6 7 8 9

Mayer & Cie Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot

Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany

30 30 30 30 30

24 24 24 24 24

48 48 48 48 48

Flat Bed Knitting Machine: Total no of M/C: 14 M/C No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Brand name Protti (PT222) Protti (PT222) Protti (PT222) Protti (PT223) Protti (PT223) Protti (PT223) Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Jyleh Gauge 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 Carriage 2 2 2 3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Inspection Table M/C No 01 02 03 04 Brand Name ALMAC HSING CHENG HSING CHENG HSING CHENG Origin India Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan

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Different parts of knitting machine: 1. Start/Stop/Inch buttons: This set of buttons is used to start/stop/slow running of

machine. 2. Ratchet lever: This lever permit the hand movement of the machine. 3. Auto stop motion: Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair. 4. Side creel: For each feed, there are two cones of yarn on the creel. 5. Tensioning device: The yarn goes to the feeder of the machine from the creel through different tensioning devices. These devices are used to maintain the proper tension of the yarn. 6. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn. 7. VDQ pulley: This is one of the important parts of the machine. Through VDQ pulley, the GSM of the fabric is controlled. If the value of the VDQ pulley is increased, then the loop length of the fabric will be less and the GSM of the fabric will be high. Vice versa for make low GSM fabric. 8. Auto counter: Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric. 9. Variable speed drive with machine break: Transistor inverter provided for free ―V.S. motor-drive from slow operation to normal operation is controlled, the process of

quite & fast break to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage. 10. Fabric takes up system: With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension. Sequence of operations in knitting section Sample fabric Design analysis Setting the machine for the specific design Production QC http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 23

Send to Batching section Points should be considered for GSM changing: 1. VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter. 2. Yarn count. 3. Machine gauge. 4. Cam position 5. Take up motion

Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design: 1. Cam arrangement changing. 2. Needle butt setting & needle dropping. 3. Using of different colors in selected feeder. 4. Using of jacquard mechanism. 5. Size of the loop shape

Recommended points of buyer: When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows1. Diameter of the fabric 2. Design of the fabric 3. GSM of the fabric 4. Total wt. of the fabric 5. Yarn count 6. Types of yarn 7. Color of the fabric 8. Finishing of fabric. 9. Handling & fastness property.

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End products of the knitting machine 1. Single Jersey machine: - Plain jersey - Lycra jersey - Single Lacoste - Double Lacoste - Single Pique - Double Pique - Fleece (Three threads) - Terry Fleece (Two thread) 2. Double Jersey machine: - 1×1 Rib - 2×1 Rib - 2×2 Rib - Irregular rib - Interlock - Platting Interlock -Face/Back Rib

3. V-bed knitting machine: - Collar - Cuff Production parameters: - Machine Diameter - Machine rpm (revolutions per minute) - No. of feeds or feeders in use - Machine Gauge - Count of yarn - Required time (Machine running time) - Machine running efficiency

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Methods of increasing production: There are few ways of increasing production of the machine – 1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased.

2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time

3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge, production can be increased.

4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.

5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. c) Using yarn feed control device. d) Using auto lint removal.

Commonly found fabric faults in the Knitting floor:  Needle mark: Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction. Causes:  Due to decayed needle.  Due to bended needle.  Due to old needle. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 27

Remedies:  Change the needle.  Sinker mark: Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction. Causes:  Due to decayed sinker.  Due to faulty adjustment of sinker with sinker cam.

Remedies:  Change the sinker.  Make necessary adjustments of sinker with sinker cam as required.  Hole: Appearance: Hole on the fabric. Causes:  If needle latch is not working properly.  Due to uneven tension.  Due to needle head breakage.  Due to improper cam setting. Remedies:  Change the needle.  Adjust the tension as required.  Adjust cam setting properly.  Loop: Appearance: As like small size holes. Causes:  Due to uneven tension.  If cam box is loose, during the cam box setting.  Any type of problem is occurred in m/c setting. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 28

Remedies:  Change the needle & sinker.  Adjust the tension as required.  Baree Mark/Patta: Appearance: Found stripe effect towards the coarse on knit fabric. Causes:  If yarns of different lot are mixing together.  If different counts of yarn are mixing together. Remedies:  Operator should be careful about that different lots of yarn cannot be mix up.  Yarn should be tested before knitting.  Slub: Appearance: A thick place is made in a particular place on fabric surface. Causes:  Due to using of low quality yarn.

Remedies:  Yarn quality should be good.  Yarn testing should be done very carefully.  Thick & Thin Place: Appearance: Higher & lower counts of yarn are knitted at a time. Causes:  Due to using of different counts of yarn during knitting.  Due to irregular yarn dia.

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 Tension Mark: Appearance: Found spot at wales direction of knit fabric. Causes:  Due to excessive tension in yarn. Remedies:  Tension should be adjusted as required.  Oil Spot: Appearance: Oil spot on fabric surface. Causes:  Due to excessive bleeding of oil in the m/c.  If there is any type of problem in needle & sinker, oil can be bled on the fabric. Remedies:  Change the faulty needle & sinker.  Machine should be cleaned time to time.  Pin Hole: Appearance: Small size of hole as like pin. Causes:  Due to wrong adjustment of cam box.  If the yarn quality is low especially yarn with less strength causes pin hole in the fabric. Remedies:  Make required adjustment of cam box.  Use high quality yarn.  Lycra Out: Appearance: A Lycra yarn is missing at vertical direction. Causes:  If Lycra yarn missed or breakage happened.

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Remedies:  Operator should be more cautious to make necessary adjustment or replacement or joining the yarn.  Lycra Drop: Appearance: Tension caused in Lycra out. Causes:  Due to excessive tension on Lycra yarn when knitted (within its tolerance limit). Remedies:  Make necessary adjustments to the tension of Lycra yarn.  Set Off: Appearance: Found loop gap on knit fabric. Causes:  Set off occurred when needle & sinker both inactive simultaneously in the process of knitting. Remedies:  Machine should be stopped as early as possible.  Star Mark Causes:  Yarn tension variation during production.  Buckling of the needle latch.  Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies:  Maintain same Yarn tension during production.  Use good conditioned needles.  Drop Stitches Causes:  Defective needle.  If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 31

 Take-down mechanism too loose.  Insufficient yarn tension.  Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies:     Needle should be straight & well. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. Yarn tension should be properly.  Yarn Faults:      Neps. Slubs. Yarn count. Thick/Thin place in yarn. Hairiness.

Remarks: Grey fabrics from knitting are used in dyeing. So the quality of the fabrics should be good so that there are no faults found for knitting of fabric after dyeing process. Also the GSM and diameter of the fabric should meet the requirements.

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SLITTING MACHINE M/C No 01 Brand Name Bianco Origin Italy

Fig 1: Slitting Machine

Fig 2: Fabric path diagram

Bianco slitting machine for knitted fabric allow slitting and opening tubular fabric in rope after knitting. The Evolution slitting line comes from Bianco's experience and, as the name suggests, it represents the evolution of the previous slitting lines. Bianco has produced the Tensionless model since 2005, by dividing the tubular fabric slitting lines into two different types of machines. The Evolution model inherits the advantages of both versions and, thanks to the multiple configurations; it can meet the different working requirements and process changes while preserving the initial investment.

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Batching: Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. In other words— ―Batching means separation of fabric according to specification, Dyeing machine capacity & availability, urgency of the order.‖ Batch contains body of garments as well as collar-cuffs according to the design.

Types of Batching: 1. Solid 2. Assorted Batch Quantity = Total required quantity X Dia Quantity/ Total quantity Batch Ratio = Total batch quantity + total parts/ Batch Quantity

Batch distribution:  Batch is distributed according to nozzle capacity.  During distribution maximum equilibrium of different parts is taken into consideration.  Lycra fabrics are slit-cut to heat-set. That‗s why before dyeing they need to re-sewn.  This is done by ‗Bag-sewing‘ machine.  Tubular fabrics are turned into their backside by turning machine.

Function or Purpose of Batch Section:  To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.  Turn the grey fabric if required.  To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –  Order sheet (Received from buyer)  Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)  M/C capacity  M/C available  Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)  Emergency http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 35

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To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Proper batching criteria:  To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.  To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.  To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.  To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Batch management: Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency. Machines used in Batching: 1. Bag Sewing machine: There is a sewing machine— Brand: Model: Needle: Power: Type: Origin: Capacity: Juki, G39/0141 2 looper in use. 10A, 230V 2 Needle 2 Looper chain stitches Japan 5 tons

2. Turning machine: There are two turning machines also. Both of them have same Brand Name M/c Speed Max up clothing Company Origin Capacity: : Taida : 300-500m/min : 150 kg : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd. : China one is 18 tons and another is 10 tons

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Machine description of Dyeing section: EKL dyeing machine list M/C No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Name Fong’s Fong’s Fong’s Thies Thies Fong’s Fong’s Fong’s Fong’s Fong’s Fong’s Santex Origin China China China Germany Germany China China China China China China China Nozzle 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 1 1 Capacity (kg) 10 10 10 500 500 500 500 500 500 750 250 150 Machine type Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing

Hydroextractor machine of EKL M/C No 1 Brand name Hanseong Origin Korea Capacity(Kg) 250 RPM 650

Dewatering machine of EKL M/C No 1 Brand name Corino Origin Switzerland Capacity (Kg) 1500/Shift

Slitting machine of EKL M/C No 1 Brand name Ferraro Origin Italy M/c Type Slitting

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Dryer of EKL M/C No 1 2 Brand name Santex LK & LH Origin Switzerland Taiwan M/c type Rib dryer S/j

Compactor of EKL M/C No 1 2 3 Brand name Ferraro Santex Santex Origin Italy Switzerland Switzerland M/c type Open form compactor Tube Compactor Tumble compactor capacity 3-3.5 tons/shift 2 tons/shift 3-3.5 tons/shift

Final Inspection Machine of EKL M/C No 1 Brand name Hsing Cheng Origin Taiwan capacity 1/2 ton

Stenter of EKL M/C No 1 Brand name LK Origin Taiwan capacity 5-7 tons Chamber 7 Burner 14

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EFL dyeing machine list M/C No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Name Son tech Son tech Son tech Fongs Fongs Son tech Son tech Son tech Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Fongs Thies Thies Thies Thies Thies Thies Origin China China China China China China China China China China China China China China China China China China Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Nozzle 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 4 4 4 4 3 3 2 Capacity (kg) 150 75 30 10 10 10 30 30 60 150 150 250 500 500 500 750 750 1000 1000 1000 1000 750 750 500 M/C type Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Sample dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing Bulk dyeing

Hydroextractor machine of EFL M/C No 1 2 Brand name Hanseong Hanseong Origin Korea Korea Capacity 250 250 RPM 650 650

Dewatering machine of EFL M/C No 1 2 Brand name Santex Corino Origin Switzerland Switzerland http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 40

Capacity 1500 kg/shift 1500 kg/shift

Slitting machine of EFL M/C No 1 2 3 Dryer of EFL M/C No 1 Brand name Entema Origin Turkey Brand name Bianco Ferraro Corino Origin Italy Italy Italy M/c Type Slitting+ dewatering Slitting Slitting

Stenter Machine of EFL M/C No 1 2 Brand name LK Monfrost Origin Taiwan capacity 5-7 tons Chamber 7 8 Burner 14 16

Germany 12 tons

Final Inspection Machine of EFL M/C No 1 Brand name Hsing Cheng Origin Taiwan capacity 1/2 ton

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Machine description Technology of the dyeing machine: Epyllion dyeing unit used special types of dyeing machine. In these machine, the Jet and Winch technology is combined i.e. during dyeing, dye liquor circulate through the machine like jet dyeing machine also the fabric is circulated through the winch as like winch dyeing machine. This combination is made for better dyeing of the fabric.

Main parts of dyeing machine: The main parts of the dyeing machine are1. Main tank 2. Reserve tank/PT tank 3. Additional/Mixing tank 4. Main pump 5. Heat exchanger 6. Filter The description of the main parts of the machine is as follows – Main tank: Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains the dye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor & fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity. Each nozzle may handle 150250 kg fabric and sample dyeing machine capacity is 10-30 kg.

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Reserve/PT tank: This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800 C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time.

Additional/Mixing tank: This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 80 0C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time.

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Main pump: This is one of the essential parts of the dyeing machine. This is used for displacing of dye bath liquor causing a flow from main tank to heat exchanger through filter. That means the pump ensures the liquor circulation throughout the dyeing process.

Heat exchanger: During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. This controlling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger.

Mechanism of Heat-exchanger: 1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body. 2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be either gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side. 3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell. 4. The temperature of the two fluids is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to another through shell.

Ways of Liquor Flow from Additional Tank: Liquor from additional tank flow to the main tank is mainly done in two ways. They are – 1. Inject: In this system, all amounts of liquor flows directly to the main tank at a time. This is done when the chemicals need to pass at short time. This system ensures high rate of flow of the liquid. 2. Dosing: In this system, the liquor does not pass to the main tank at a time. There are few chemicals which have very severe action to the fabric if it flows directly like sodium hydroxide (NaOH). These chemicals pass to the main tank in an increasing or decreasing way with time so that the harsh effect of these chemicals is minimized. There are three

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3. Types of dosing:

- Linear Dosing

- Progressive Dosing

- Decreasive Dosing

Circulation system: During the treatment of fabric, the liquor is circulated throughout the machine. At first, the required amount of liquor is taken in the main tank. Then the liquor goes to the filter through pump and then it goes to the heat-exchanger. From the heat-exchanger, the liquor goes to the main tank through nozzle. The schematic diagram of liquor circulation system is given below-

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Types of machine according to temperature:  Atmospheric machine  High temperature machine . Features of Fong‗s atmospheric machine:  The machine is designed for pre-treatment, dyeing & after-treatment under atmospheric condition.  Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and extensive exchange with the liquid.  Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available.  Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric  Production capacity: 500 kg maximum per batch.  Maximum temperature: 980 C.  Maximum pressure: 1 atm.

Features of high temperature machine (Both Thies & Fong‗s):  The machine is designed for the pretreatment, dyeing and after treatment which can provide temperature up to 1400 C.  Nozzle lead gets interlocked after temperature exceeds 800 C.

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 Loading per nozzle 250kg  Design pressure: 350-550kpa  Design Temp : 1400 C  Hydraulic Test Pressure: 585Kpa  Manufacturer: Germany (Thies), China (Fong‗s)  No of nozzles: 1-8.

Comparison between Fong‗s and Thies dyeing machine: Fong‘s Have heat-exchanger for preparation tank. Liquor pass through the filter & heatexchanger Have dissolution pump for mixing chemical in Not present 1:4 ratio. Horizontal heat-exchanger. Two additional tanks. Variable loading chamber. Loading per nozzle 280 kg (HSJ). Winch speed can be above 450 m/min. Vertical heat-exchanger. One additional tank. Not present. Loading per nozzle 250 kg Up to 350 m/min. Thies Such facilities are not present. Filter and heat-exchanger are separate.

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Working principle of Winch Dyeing Machine: The winch dyeing m/c is quite simple and serves for all scouring, bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes. The m/c contains a length of fabric with the ends sewn together, which is compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope passes from the dye bath over two elevated reels and then falls back into the bath. The jockey or fly roller is free running and winch reel is driven and controls the rate of rope transport and the extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind the winch. Both reels extend the full length of the m/c and accommodate several fabric ropes running side by side. A perforated baffle separates the liquor in the front of the m/c from the remainder .This part of the m/c is called ‗the salting box‘. Both dyes and chemicals are added to salting box during dyeing and gradually mix into the remainder of the solutions. All additions must be made across the full length of the m/c with stirring. Heating is by steam injection from a perforated pipe running along the length of the salting box. A heat exchanger present in the m/c absorbs extra vapor/heat to cool the m/c for safety. The m/c is preferably closed to avoid steam and heat losses, particularly when dyeing at or near boiling point. The rate of dyeing is partly controlled by the rate of rope cycling and usually increases with increasing winch speed. So, this is the basic mechanism of winch m/c.

Advantages:      Easy to m/c operate, batch load and unload system. The several numbers of batches can be dyed at a time. Knitted fabric can be dyed easily because of less tension on the fabric. High speed, high temperature and pressure causes level dyeing of the fabric. Aquachoron process helps to maintain the temperature during bath drop.

Disadvantages:    Little difficult to maintain uniform heating. Fabric rope form causes uneven shade variation. Initial investment cost is high.

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Calculation of Winch Speed: Let, Fabric weight = 1000kg Per nozzle fabric weight =250kg Fabric Diameter (open) = 56 inch Cycle time or Dwell time = 2.5-3.0 m per minute G.S.M =180 We know, GSM = gram / meter2 = gram / (Length × Diameter) Or, Length = gram / (GSM × Diameter) = (250×1000×100) / (56×2.54×180) = 976 meters. So, Winch or Reel Speed = Per nozzle Fabric length / Cycle time = 976 / 3 meter/minute = 325 meter/minute.

Calculation of Linear Density: Linear Density = (Diameter×GSM×2.54) / 100 gram/meter

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Production planning and sequence of operation: Dyeing process flow chart:

Grey fabric receive from knitting section ↓ Batching ↓ Turning of fabric (only for Single Jersey) ↓ Selection machine no ↓ Fabric loading ↓ Select production program ↓ Select recipe for dyeing ↓ Pretreatment ↓ Dyeing ↓ After treatment ↓ Fabric Unload

Production Parameters: 1) PH - Scouring PH – 12.5 - During H2O2 bleaching PH- 10.5-11 - Enzyme PH – 4.5 http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 50

- Before dyeing (Leveling) PH– 6.5 - Salt PH – 7-8 - During reactive dyeing PH-10.5-11.5 - During disperse dyeing PH- 4.5-6.0 - Softener PH – 6.5 2) Temperature: -For cotton fabric scouring: 105ºC During NaOH addition 650C During H2O2 addition 700C Peroxide killing at 800C

- Sequestering at 900C - Bio-polishing at 550C - For cotton dyeing: Low brand – 450C Medium brand – 60 0C Hot brand – 800C

- Migration for turquoise color at – 900C - Optical brightening agent (OBA) at – 800C - Polyester dying: 1000-1300C - Softener at – 450C 3) Time: - For white fabric 4-5hrs - For 100% cotton 8-10hrs - For 100% polyester 5hrs - CVC 2 parts 13-14 hrs. 4) M: L ratio: - For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between 1:8

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Pretreatment flow chart Fresh water and fabric Load at 450C Temperature raise to 600C

Detergent, Peroxide Stabilizer inject

Run for 5 min

Inject Caustic and run 5 min Raise temperature to 700C

H2O2 inject and run 5 min Temperature raise to 1050C

Run for 30 min Lower the temperature to 800C

Bath drain

Peroxide killer inject and run 10 min

Rinsing and unload the fabric.

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Curve for scouring of fabric

Types of shade:  Light  Medium  Dark  White

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Isothermal Dyeing Level in at 600C Color dosing 60˚C x 35ʹ (linear dosing) Run time 60˚C x 15ʹ Salt dissolving 15ʹ (recirculation process) Run 15ʹ Soda dosing for 50ʹ( 70% progressive) Check the sample after 10ʹ Migration Dyeing Level in at 600C Color dosing for 35ʹ Run time 10ʹ Salt dissolving 15 min Run time 10ʹ Temperature rise at 800C Run time 20 ʹ Temperature drop at 600C Order of Color and Salt dissolving/dosing:  In case of 0-1.0 % (light) shade color is dosed first then salt dissolving is performed.  In case of 1-2.5% (medium) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.  In case of 3 & above % (dark) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.

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Dyeing procedure for dark shade: (Black) Process Flow Chart Fresh Water taken at 600 C ↓ Inject Leveling agent and keep for 7 min ↓ Salt dosing 20 min & runtime 20 min ↓ Color dosing 35 min and run for 15 min ↓ Soda dosing for 30 min (70% progressive) and run 10 min ↓ Caustic dosing for 25 min and run 20 min ↓ Sample check after 10 min ↓ Wash and unload. Curve for black shade (dark) cotton dyeing

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Dyeing procedure for Light/Medium Shade: Flow Chart: Fabric load and then Water taken Rise temperature to 600C PH to control to 6.5 Inject leveling agent and run for 10 min Color dosing for 45 min + add ½ SV Run the bath 10 min Other ½ SV inject and run 20 min ½ Salt add and run 10 min Extra ½ Salt addition and run for 20 min Soda dosing for 60 min After 10 min Sample check Rinsing and unloading

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Production flow chart for white shade: Process flow chart Detergent, Peroxide stabilizer added at 600C Fabric load and run for 5 min Caustic dosing for 5 min at 600C Temperature raised to 700C Peroxide added and raise temperature to 800C Optical brightening agent dosing for 10 min and temperature raise to 1050C Run for 50 min and lower temperature to 800C Bath drain and water taken at 800C Rinsing for 10 min then bath drain Fresh water taken and Acetic acid at 600C Run for 10 min then again drain the bath Acetic acid at 550C and PH control to 4.5 Enzyme is added and run for 50 min at 550C Bath drain and fresh water at 600C Inject Sequestering agent and temperature raise to 900C Run 10 min and adds Softener, again run 20 min Fabric unload

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Curve for White shade

Dyeing of 100% Polyester Process Flow Chart: Fabric Load

Water Level – As Required

Raise temp to 600C

Add Felson NOF

Raise temp.to 900C & run time 10 min

Bath drain

Water in

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Raise temperature to 450C

Add acetic acid & runtime 10 min

Bath drain

Water taking

Raise temperature to 450C

Dye dosing for 10 min

Raise temperature to 1300C & run for 45 min

Drain

Water taking

Cooling at 700C & sample cheek if shade ok then bath drop

Hydrose + Caustic at 800C for 20 min

Hot wash

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Curve for Polyester dyeing:

Production flow chart for turquoise color dyeing: Flow chart of turquoise color dyeing: Water taken at 600C and PH = 6.5

Raise the temperature to 800C

Ant creasing and sequestering agent inject and run 10 min.

Color + ½ SV dosing for 50 min and run 10 min.

½ SV inject and run for 10 min.

½ Salt dosing for 10 min. then run 10 min.

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Again ½ Salt dosing and run 10 min

Temperature to 900C (10C/min) and run 20 min

Temperature reduce to 800C

Soda dosing (70% progressive) for 40 min then run 10 min

Caustic dosing (70% Progressive) for 40 min then run 10 min

Sample check

Curve for dyeing with turquoise color:

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Washing of grey mélange fabric: Level in ↓ Wetting agent at 60ºC ↓ Bath Drain ↓ Level in ↓ PH 5.5 and temperature 55oC ↓ Enzyme ↓ Run time 60min ↓ Rise temperature to 80ºC MIR rinse for 15ʹ ↓ Level in ↓ Softener 45ºCx10' ↓ Bath Drain ↓ Cold rinse http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 62

After treatment After treatment Process flow chart: Wash off at 95 C*15 (soaping agent 1-1.5 g/l) ↓ Overflow Rinse/MIR 50˚C x 15´ ↓ Acid 0.35 g/l ↓ Softening treatment 45 C x 20 at PH - 4.5~5 ↓ Rinse 15ʹʹ ↓ Unload After treatment process may vary according to buyer requirement like whether softener, anticreasing or enzyme should be applied or not.

Stripping Recipe:

1. Hydrose 2. Caustic soda 3. Detergent 980c, 60mins

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DYEING PARAMETERS PH Levels For Different Stages Of Cotton Dyeing: 1. Initial Bath pH 2. Before Enzyme, bath pH 3. After Enzyme & Aquachoron, pH 4. Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (With Enzyme) 5. Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (Without Enzyme) 6. Scouring & Bleaching, bath pH 7. After Scouring & Bleaching, pH 8. Before Leveling Chemicals, pH 9. After Leveling Chemicals, pH 10. After Adding Dyes, pH 11. After Addition of Salt, pH 12. After Addition of Soda, pH 13. Before Hot Wash, Bath pH 14. Hot Wash, bath pH 15. Before Softener, bath pH 16. After Softener Addition, bath pH PH Levels For Different Stages Of Polyester Dyeing: 1. Initial bath pH 2. Scouring, bath pH 3. After Scouring, bath pH 4. Before Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH 5. After Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH 6. After Addition of Colors, bath pH 7. During Reduction Clearing, bath pH 8. Before Softener, bath pH 6.5~7.0. 10.0~11.5. 8.5~9.0. 6.0~6.5. 4.5~4.7. 4.2~4.3. 10.5~11.5. 6.3~6.8.  6.5~7.0.  4.5~4.7.  5.5~6.0.  5.5~5.8.  5.5~5.8.  10.0~10.5.  8.5~9.0.  6.5~7.0.  6.7~7.0.  6.2~6.35.       7.5~8.0. 10.5~11.0. 6.8~7.2. 8.5~8.7. 7.2~7.8. 6.5~6.8.

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Process Loss: Fabric types G.Star (s/j) M&S (s/j) Lycra (S/J) YID fabrics Grey mélange (M&S) Grey mélange (G.Star) Loss of percentage 12% 10% 14% 7% 10% 12%

Common dyeing faults with their remedies: 1. Uneven dyeing: Causes: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). - Improper color dosing. - Using dyes of high fixation property. - Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. - Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: - By ensuring even pretreatment. - By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. - Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

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2. Batch to Batch Shade variation: Causes: - Fluctuation of Temperature. - Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. - Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. - Dyes lot variation. - Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. - Improper pretreatment.

Remedies: - Use standard dyes and chemicals. - Maintain the same liquor ratio. - Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. - Maintain the same dyeing cycle. - Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. - Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process. - The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily. 3. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes: - Poor migration property of dyes. - Improper dyes solubility. - Hardness of water. - Faulty m/c speed, etc http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 66

Remedies: - Use standard dyes and chemicals. - Proper m/c speed. - Use of soft water. 4. Crease mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal - Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: - maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Reducing the m/c load - Higher liquor ratio 5. Dye spot: Causes: - Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. - Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. Remedies: - By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals - By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed.

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6. Wrinkle mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Higher liquor ratio 7. Softener Mark: Causes: - Improper mixing of the Softener. - Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. - Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. - Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. - Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remarks: We have seen that in dyeing different production parameters like temperature, time, PH, M:L ratio etc. are strictly followed. Sometimes the original dyeing process may not be found according to dyeing curve as they produce some complicated shade. One thing is clearly noticeable that production manager and officers are committed to try their best for reducing production time.

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Finishing Section: Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are – A. Tube line B. Open line A. The machine that are used for open line are given bellow – Slitting and Dewatering machine Stenter machine Open Compacting Machine Tube compactor

B. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –. Dewatering machine Dryer Compactor machine Process flow Chart for Finishing Section: Finishing

Open Finish Slitting and Dewatering Stentering Compacting

Tube Finish Dewatering Dryer Compacting

Inspection Delivery

Inspection Delivery

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TUBE COMPACTOR MACHINE: (M/C Specification) Working principle:The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it passed through the Teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the expander. This m/c contain two compaction unit to compact both side of the tubular fabric .Each unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device .Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully. Important parts:-Over feed roller. -Expander. -Blanket -Steam sprayers. -cylinder -Teflon covers.

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SLITTING MACHINE:

Detwister Tubular Fabric
Cigger

r

Knife for open The fabric

Padder

Sens -or

Open Fabric

Delivered Dyed fabric Fabric

Fig: Fabric passage through the slitting machine Working principle:The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.

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Function of the Machine:  Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing  To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering  Delivered fabric in crease free state  Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer  It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism Compactor Working Principle: Stenter Machine is generally used to finish the open fabric. This Stenter machine consists of six chambers; each contains two burners, two blowers, two ducting line, nozzles and suction fan attach with the suction line. The burner produces hot flue gases which guided though the ducting line by the help of blower. There are nozzles placed above and below the rail. When the fabric passed through the rail, then hot air is sprayed to the above and bellows the fabric with the help of nozzle. The hot air is circulating in the chamber and the moisture in the fabric is evaporated, which leave the chamber with the help of suction fan through the ducting line. Temperature of each chamber can control automatically by controlling the intensity of burner. Generally lower temperature is maintained the first and last chamber then other chambers. The speed of the fabric is maintained according to the moisture content of the fabric. After passing the fabrics to all the chambers, the fabric is collected for compaction. The performance of the Stentering range depends on proper introduction of the cloth into the machine. The finer the fabric is being processed, the greater the significance of the correct, crease free and fault free fabric introduction. In Stenter m/c the fabric first passed through different rollers including weft straightening device, uncurling device for proper feeding of the fabric into the machine. Then it passed through the selvedge detector which detect the selvedge and adjust the rail for proper gripping the fabric in the pin arrangement. This Stenter m/c consists of both pin and clip arrangement. The fabric first grip by pin and gust before entering the chamber, pin are locked by clip arrangement. To maintain proper dimension of the fabric, length wise overfeed and width wise tension is given to the fabric. Important parts: - Burner - Exhaust air fan - Over feed roller. - Suction Fan - Nozzle - Chain arrangement http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 72

Function: - Drying - Shrinkage control - Heat setting - Width control - Finishing chemical application. - Loop control - Moisture control, etc Function: To dry the fabric properly. To dry the fabric without tension. Main parts: 1. Heat chamber. 2. Burner. 3. Blower. 4. Exhaust fan. 5. Synthetic blanket. 6. Folding device. Heating system: Gas fire, Steam. Utility used: -Gas -Electricity -Compressed air -Steam Setting according to fabric construction: Fabric type Single jersey Interlock Rib T/C,P/C, Viscose Lacoste Collar Lycra fabric Speed (m/min) 15 10 10 20-23 30 20 17 Temperature( C) 140 140 140 130 140 140 130 http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 73

Overfeed speed(%) 20 25-30 15-20 40-45 40-45 40-45 45-50

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Machines used in Laboratory: 1. Button tester (Saf Guard) 2. Light Box (Verivide) D65 UV F (Yellow) D840 D830 3. Electric ppt. 4. Rubbing & Crocking tester (Crock Master) 5 Twist Testers 6. Pilling & Snagging tester 7. Brusting strength tester 8. Yarn appearance Tester 9. Yarn Count Tester 10. AHIBA NUNNCE Dyeing Machine 11. Fastness tester (color fastness to wash) Gray wash for 40ºC 12. Test name: Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning M/C name: Rota wash (Electrolux) Test method: ISO105-C06 13. Washing machine a) Indesit Washing m/c b) Ariston Washing m/c c) Electrolux Washing m/c 14. Tumble Dryer 15. Spectrophotometer 16. SIEMENS Dryer 17. Auto Dispenser m/c (Data Color) 18. Digital PH tester http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 76

Quality Assurance System: The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistency for uniform quality of the material in process & various stages of its manufacturing. Objects of quality control:       Research Selection of raw material process control Process development Product testing Specification test

Quality Control system mainly two types: 1. Online QC 2. Offline QC 1. Online QC Online quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process control. Raw material control: As the quality of product depends on the raw materials quality so we must provide the best quality raw material with an economical consideration. The fabric must be fault-free, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process. The Grey inspection report gives the condition of the raw fabric. Process control: The method chosen for the process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters. Here the specific gravity, water level, residual hydrogen per oxide etc. at each stage is checked. Laboratory: Lab is the important part of a textile industry. Higher precision in a trial can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is sent to the buyer. As per the requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab considering the economic aspects. Lab line: 1. Standard sample: It is obtained from buyer. The sample is measured by the CCM to get the recipe. 2. Lab trial: Getting the recipe the lab officer produce lab trial and match with standard according to buyer requirement. Lab trial is made by the AHIBA dyeing machine. There are some programs for dyeing. The programs will be described later. 2. Offline QC Off-line tests: All the Offline tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows: http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 77

A. Physical tests B. Chemical tests Physical Tests:  GSM test  Shrinkage test  Spirality test  Tensile strength  Abrasion resistance  Pilling resistance  Button Strength Testing  Crease resistance  Dimensional stability  Bursting strength test Chemical Tests:  Color Fastness to washing.  Color Fastness to light.  Color Fastness to heat.  Color Fastness to Chlorinated water.  Color Fastness to water spotting.  Color Fastness to perspiration.  Color Fastness to Sea-water.  Fiber analysis.  PH test.  Spray test (water repellency). Auto Dispenser Data color AUTOLAB 80-bottle Lab Dispenser Features - Small to Medium Dye Range - 80 solution bottles and 80 injectors - Uses 2 dispense scales - Simultaneous volumetric dispense of water into 3 dye pots at same time - Auto loading/unloading of dye pot trays - Dispenses 12 recipes at a time (2 trays)

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Fig: Auto dispenser machine Benefits - Low maintenance - Individual injectors mean no possible cross contamination - Fast, reliable and precise operation - Minimal operator intervention required, high level of automation - Suitable for wide range of applications, exhaust and continuous dyeing, Textile printing, etc Speed - Dispense speed (6 recipes : 3 dyes, 180 cc total): 7 min Procedure of the Different Tests: Physical test: 1. Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality): Sample: Two pieces of 50 cm * 50 cm fabric is taken for test. Procedure: a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs. for conditioning before starting test. b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine. c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer‗s choice. d. Drying: All Buyers‘ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.

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2. Pilling test: Procedure: Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using template. Then sew the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube molded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes are placed in a box & start 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs. or according to buyer requirement. Here mainly used 3hrs (1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewing cabinet & compare with standard photographs 3. PH Test: Procedure: Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax with 100cc water (M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check P H by PH meter. 4. GSM TEST: Procedure: GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample is cut by the GSM cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multiplied by 100 to get the value of GSM. 5. Bursting Strength Test:  Cut sample of 250x250 mm2 shape and see how much air pressure is needed to tear apart.  160-250 KPa is the allowable range for all. Chemical Test: 1. Color Fastness to Wash Test: Required materials: 1. Sample size 10cm x 4cm 2. Multi-fiber of 10cm x 4cm 3. ECE detergent (WOB) – 4g/L 4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L 5. Distilled water 6. Normal cold water 7. Steel balls Required instrument: 1. Rota Wash machine 2. Scissors 3. Stitch machine Procedure: 1. Cut sample & multi-fiber at 10cm x 4cm and then stitch. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 80

2. 5g/l ECE detergent (WOB) & 1g/l ml Sodium per borate tetra hydrate is taken with the sample. For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following formula: 3. The sample is kept in 600 C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine. Weight this composite specimen to calculate the volume of wash liquor required to give a 1:50 liquor ratio. (i.e. 50 ml of liquor of 1gm of composite specimen.) 4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water. 5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more than 150°C. Report: Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale & Staining Scale. 2. Color Fastness to Perspiration Test: Test specimen:  Sample fabric – 50 mm * 50 mm  Multifiber fabric 50 mm * 100 mm  Cut the multifiber into two pieces  Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber. Testing Solution: 1. Alkaline Solution: L Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10Cl N3O2.H2O) – 0.5 g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L Di sodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.5 g/L PH – 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH) 2. Acidic Solution: Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O) – 0.5 g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) – 2.5g/L PH – 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH) Method: - The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample). - Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two petri dishes. Here, M: L is taken 1:20. - Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping. - The specimen is kept for 30 minutes. - A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature. - Excess solution is poured off. - Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at 370C for 4 hours. - The specimen is dried (temp 600C) http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 81

Report: - Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale.

3. Color Fastness to Water Test: Test specimen:  Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm  Multi fiber fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm  Cut the multi-fiber into two piece  Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber. Testing Solution:  Water is taken as required Method: - The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample). - Water is taken in the petri dish as required. - Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping. - The specimen is kept for 30 minutes. - A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature. - Excess solution is poured off. - Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at 370C for 4 hours. - The specimen is then dried (Temp 600C) Report: - Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale. 4. Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test: Sample: - Dyed fabric dimension of 15 cm * 5 cm - White Test Cloth of 5 cm * 5 cm Procedure: - White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire. - The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed. - For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually. Then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed. Report: - Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

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5.Shrinkage Test Calculation: Shrinkage % = (Before wash – After wash)/Before Wash*100 Spirality test calculation: S = (S1+S2) / 2 Spirality = (S+S  L)/100. Suppose, S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash. S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash. L = Length before wash Lab. Dip Dyeing Sample: - Weight – 5gm. Procedure: - At first the recipe for the sample is calculated according to the sample weight. - The fabric is kept in the dyeing chamber. - Then the dyes, chemicals, salt & required amount of water is taken in that dyeing chamber by digital pipetting on the basis of stock solution. - Then the beaker is set into the lab. Dip. Dyeing machine for dyeing. - The program for dyeing is started for 20 min at 40 0C. - After 20 min soda is added by pipetting. - Then the dyeing program is set for 60 min at 600C for normal color, 80ºC for turquoise color, 130ºC for PET. - When the dyeing time is finished the sample is taken out from the machine at 400C. - Then the sample is washed off. At first cold wash & then hot wash is done. After it soaping is done. - Then the sample is dried and compared with standard

Report: Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale & Staining Scale. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 83

Finished fabric Inspection: The final product should pass against the norms given by the buyer. The following tests are done--Shade check -GSM test -Width or diameter test -Shrinkage test -Crocking test Quality Standard: Epyllion maintains the ISO: 9002 standard in case of quality. Therefore, four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at Epyllion. Four point grading system Size of defects 3 inches or less Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch Over 9 inch Penalty 1 point 2 point 3 point 4 point -Pilling resistance test -Color fastness to test -Color fastness to perspiration -Dimensional stability

Explanation of some of the Tests Appearance Evaluation after Home laundering and dry-cleaning: Test method to evaluate overall general appearance of a garment and other textile products after repeated home laundering and dry-cleaning. Colorfastness to accelerated Laundering: Test to evaluate the colorfastness properties like color loss, bleeding and surface changes of textiles that intended to be laundered frequently.

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Colorfastness to Crocking: Test to evaluate the degree of color, which may be transferred from the surface of colored textile material to other surfaces by rubbing action such as upholstery, carpet and other wearing apparel in the normal course of use. Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles during commercial dry-cleaning. Colorfastness to Home Laundering: test to evaluate the colorfastness properties of textiles during actual home laundering process as followed by consumer. Colorfastness to Light: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles when subject to light exposure. Colorfastness to Non Chlorine Bleach: Test to evaluate the colorfastness performance of a textile fabric when subjected to the action of Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Perspiration: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property to Textiles to the effect of perspiration on textile. Colorfastness to Pool Water: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles to the effect of chlorinated poor water. Colorfastness to Sea Water: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of Textiles to the effect of sea water. Dimensional stability to dry-clean: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subject to commercial dry-cleaning. Dimensional stability to Home Laundering: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subjected to home laundering Fabric weight: Test to determine the weight of textile fabrics in garments generally at 70 Fare height/21 degrees Celsius and 65% relative humidity. Fiber content: test to determine the fiber composition of textile goods through special, microscopic and chemical methods. Flammability: The purpose of this test is to test and rate the flammability of textiles and discouraging the use of any dangerously flammable clothing. Formaldehyde: Test to determine the residual presence of Formaldehyde in textile products finished with chemicals containing formaldehyde. Lead Content: Test to determine any usage of lead or lead contaminants in excess of 0.06% of the weight of total nonvolatile content of paint. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 85

Mechanical Hazard/Sharp edges: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by laceration or incision. Mechanical Hard/Sharp Points: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by puncture or laceration. Mechanical Hazard/Small parts: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by infants/toddlers for any unreasonable risk of small parts choking hazard. PH Value: Test to indicate the efficiency of washing operation after various wet treatment either bleaching or scouring. Seam Slippage: Test to evaluate the resistance to yarn slippage at sewn seams in woven fabric when a load is applied at seams. Seam Strength: Test to measure the maximum seam strength which can be achieved in woven fabrics when a force is applied perpendicular to the seam. Snap/De-snap: test to determine the force required to disengage snap fastness by a pull perpendicular and parallel with the plain of the snap fastener. Tearing Strength: Test to determine the average force required to continue a tear from a cut in a woven fabric by means of falling apparatus. Tensile Strength: Test to determine the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics. Not recommended for knit fabrics or fabrics with high stretch value. Thread Count: Test to determine the number of Warp and Weft yarns or Wales/courses per unit distance in woven or knitted fabrics respectively. Water Repellency: Test to indicate the resistance of fabrics to get the wet by water. Yarn size: Test to determine the size of fineness (linear density of a yarn expressed either as mass per unit length or length per unit mass depending upon yarn numbering system of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted or manmade fabrics in measurable length.) Remarks: Epyllion have a well-equipped Testing laboratory for all kinds of Textile Testing. All of them are fully featured. The laboratory of Epyllion is approved by world renowned buyers. Every kind of textile testing can be done with great accuracy and ease.

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Production Capacity: Total line Total floor Total m/c 34 1 1500 (approximately running) 60000 pcs/day (minimum) 2.5-3 Million pcs/month

Production/day No of Machine

Machine Over lock Plain Machine Flat Lock Button hole Button Stitch Bertack Single Needle Chain stitch Two Needle chain stitch Velcro PMD (Kansai) Eyelet hole

No. of Machine 400 530 275 12 12 8 30 10 10 4 12

Garments Manufacturing Garment making is one of the basic content of fashion designing. Proficiency in the art of sewing is an essential pre-requisite in garment making. Therefore, it is necessary to know the techniques of sewing for producing attractive garments with good fit. Garment making is thus a technical accomplishment that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of clothing construction and skills involved in it. This depends on the ability to select the correct fabric, colour, design and accessories to suit an individual occasion. A garment that is made will be attractive if it fits well and proper attention is paid to its finer details. There are 2 types of garments. One is Woven garments. Another is Knitted garments. Shirts, trousers, sharees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are Woven. T shirts, sweatshirts, undergarments, pajamas and socks are Knits.

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Woven fabrics are made in hand looms, power looms and mill made. Making woven fabrics is simple. But yarn counts, reed & picks (warp & weft), width should be considered with more care. The fabric quality is made differently by various methods of finishing and treating. Knit fabrics are made in different kinds of knitting machines. According to the structure of fabrics, they are called by different names. The mainly used fabrics are Jersey, Pique, Interlock, Rib, French Rib, Flat back rib, Loop knit, Fleece, Polar fleece and Jacquards. The knit garments can be made in solid dyed or all over printed or yarn striped or jacquard fabrics. Garments Manufacturing Sequence

Garments manufacturing follows a flowchart where in each steps definite works are completed to carried out a complete garments. Here I will show you all of the garments manufacturing steps that you must follow to make a garment.

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Flow chart of garments manufacturing

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Design/ Sketch: For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer. Pattern Design Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer. Production Pattern The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification. Pattern Making The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Pattern making is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. Nowadays sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.

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Marker planning & marker making Garments manufacturing is very important part of textile production and proper marker planning and marker making is the heart of garments manufacturing. The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and lay planning. Optimum use of textile material and cutting systems are important considerations in planning cutting orders as more firms incorporate new technology. The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization. One garments cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency of marker. Usually one of these is a remnant marker for the short pieces and ends of rolls left over. This helps to reduce fabric waste. Each marker requires a lay of fabric.

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread. Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes. The process of arranging Pattern pieces in the most efficient manner requires time, skill, and concentration. Markers may be made by manually tracing master patterns onto fabric or paper or by manipulating and plotting computerized pattern images.

There are two types of marker making: 1. Manual marker making 2. Computerized marker making.

1. Manual marker making: Manually produced markers may be created by arranging full pattern pieces on marker paper or directly on the top ply of fabric in a spread. Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailor's chalk. Manual methods of marker planning and making are timeconsuming and require a great deal of space. Full-size pieces must be manipulated, adjusted, and readjusted on normal fabric widths. Manually made markers are also subject to errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variations, poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces, and omission of pieces. Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the marker and traced it.

2. Computerized marker making: Computerized marker making is more accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse of previously made markers, and shortest response time. Production patterns may be developed on the computer and/or digitized or scanned into the computer. In addition, parameters for markers are entered http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 92

into the computer from cutting orders. These might include style numbers, size distribution, and fabric width. Technicians manipulate pattern images on computer screens and experiment with various configurations to determine the best fabric utilization for the marker. Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut. Computer-driven plotters may draw pattern pieces, graded nests of patterns, and/or markers with complete annotation, depending on the needs of the apparel firm. New multihead jet plotters are much faster and can print variable line density and width, text identification information, and bar codes. Some garment manufacturers have devices to copy original markers when multiple copies are needed. Plotting is often the bottleneck in the preproduction processes, especially if a firm runs a lot of copies. Many firms run their plotters 24 hours a day to keep up with demand. Firms using computerized cutters may not need paper markers to guide the cutting process and therefore may only print identification information for bundles. Spreading Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine. Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 200 layers of fabric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.

Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layers or piles of specified length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks caused by stencil marks. Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric area.

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Types of Lay Plan Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher. Types of Lay Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric. Forms of Spreading One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric. Fabric Cutting Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments. Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called "cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to hightech. Although scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches or

sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 94

and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques. Types of Cutting Fully manual: Hand operated scissor Manually operated power knife: Straight knife Band knife Round knife Die cutting Notcher Drill Computerized methods of fabric cutting: Computer controlled knife cutting Cutting by Laser beam Cutting by Water jet Cutting by Plasma torch Bundling "Bundling" is the process of disassembling the stacked and cut pieces and reassembling them in production lots grouped by garment unit, color dye lot, and number of garments. Manufacturers use a variety of bundling methods depending upon their needs, with four basic systems being the most common among local manufacturers: Item bundling - all pieces that comprise a garment are bundled together. Group bundling - several (10-20) garments are put together in a bundle and given to a single operator or team to sew. Progressive bundling - pieces corresponding to specific sections of the garment (such as sleeves or a collar) are bundled together and given to one operator. Other operators sew other parts of the garment, which are then assembled into the finished garment in the final phase.

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Unit production system (UPS) - individual garment pieces are delivered to sewers using a computerized, fully mechanized "assembly line" that runs throughout the manufacturing facility. Using a UPS computer monitoring system, a manufacturer can fully track the production of a garment, identify where sewing slowdowns are occurring, and reroute garment pieces to other sewers who work more quickly. Gerber Garment Technology Inc. manufactures a UPS system, which eliminates the need for passing apparel piece bundles from worker to worker. This lowers labour costs because employees spend less time handling bundles and more time sewing. It also facilitates short-cycle manufacturing. Modular or "team based" manufacturing is another type of bundling that combines some of the above characteristics. Developed in Japan, it is the grouping of sewing operators into teams of eight to ten. Rather than each sewer performing a single task, they work together on a garment from start to finish. One-third of the U.S. apparel industry has switched to either unit production or modular manufacturing. In Los Angeles, however, only a few major manufacturers engage in computerized unit productions (constituting about ten percent of total production) while the majority of contractors still use progressive bundling. Bundling workers also carry out important quality control functions. They inspect the garment pieces for cutting problems, fabric irregularities, or any other problems that may have occurred in production thus far. Sewing Garments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming more complete as it progresses down the sewing line. Sewing machine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of the garment, passing that completed portion to the next

operator. For example, the first operator may sew the collar to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance is performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no manufacturing defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing stations. This labor-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments.

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Pressing or Folding Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form. Some pressing, termed "under pressing," may be done in the course of assembling a garment, for example, pressing seams open or ironing a collar. Most pressing is done after assembly to improve the appearance of a garment. In other

cases, especially with knits, garments are simply folded instead of pressed. Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form. Finishing and Detailing ―Finishing‖ is the addition of special detailing such as pleats, embroidery and screen printing to a garment. This includes hand stitching (unseen handwork done inside collars and lapels to give them shape) and its automated substitutes. This may also include adding buttons, hooks, eyes, or trims, as well as clipping loose threads. All finishing of moderate- and lower-priced garments is done by machine. Garment Inspection All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment. Under quality assurance process, the bulk production is inspected before delivery to the customer to examine if it meets the specifications. The consumers want to get quality products and the products should reach the consumers with right quality. Quality assurance covers all the processes within a factory that contributes to the production of quality garment products and is conducted right from where housing, manufacturing, finishing and packing process until shipment is released. The final inspection is carved out by buyer http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 97

representative or independent auditors free from any pressure from vendor or factory representative. Air of final inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from fully or 8090% packed purchase order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or reference tagged sample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded as reference but still vendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any arising due to any defective goods found packed and inspected at buyers warehouse. Types of Inspections Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement. 1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production when first production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies or variation and to do necessary corrections to be made bulk production. This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage of manufacturing of a style covering mainly style detail, general appearance, workmanship, measurements, fabric quality, Trims and components, Lot color, printing, embellishments and washing quality. 2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensure initial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up of the 1 st inline production inspection and is generally carried out after 1 st line inspection when discrepancies have been detected at that time. Why inspection is required?

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge to edge shading, color, hand feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 98

minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries. Four Point System of Textile Inspection Four Point System is based on penalty points given to a defect found when inspecting fabric. Rule is as below: Not more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect. No more than four penalty points may be given to one linear yard/meter regardless of the number of defects found within one yard/meter. For continuous defects such as shading between side, centre side, side to side shading, end to end shading no penalty points are assigned but the roll is graded as second quality and must be reported to mill for replacement. General Inspection Procedures 1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting. 2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed. 3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute. 4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received. 5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to inspection. 6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance. 7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented. 8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight. 9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard. 10. All defects must be flagged during inspection 11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional replacement to avoid shortage. 12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

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Packaging and Shipping In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and

packaged according to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective plastic bags, either manually or using an automated system, to ensure that the material stays clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are placed in cardboard boxes and shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores. Quality Control Quality control helps to ensure that all garment products meet production standards and match the original sample Introduction to Quality Control There are two main aspects to quality of garment. Design Quality: It is concerned with materials, fit and construction methods. Manufacturing Quality: Manufacturing quality is concerned with degree to which the garment produced agrees with the sample or specifications. Who decides the quality level - The consumer of the number of the public who buys a garment from a retail shop also influences the quality requirements. In many cases this can be negative.i.e he does not buy, all though in the bigger organization where marketing programs are carried out the consumer can affect the design quality. In the majority of cases the customer decides the acceptable levels of quality both from design and manufacturing aspects. The customer may be a professional buyer for a large wholesale or retail organization. The main objective of quality control is to ensure that goods are produced to the first customer (Direct Order) and hopefully to the second customers(Re-order/Alter Order/New Order) as well.If both customers can be satisfied then the manufacturer‘s products are more likely to be continued in demand. Satisfactory quality can only be ensured through( from the manufacturers point of view): http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 100

Knowing the customers needs Designing to meet them Faultless construction Certified performance and safety Clear instruction manuals Suitable packing Prompt delivery Feed back of filed experience Satisfied quality can be ensured from the customers point of view by providing: Right Product Right Quality Right Time Undamaged Condition How can quality be achieved? Goods must be designed to meet customers needs and make manufacturing process and maintenance easy. They must be made exactly and consistently to the specified design. Marketing must ensure accurate advertising, trade description with constant feedback for improved design. Total commitment to organized design. Principles of Quality Management – The objectives to prevent errors by early detection and action are: The need to make the requirement complete and clear at all levels, from this specification of a large system to the individuals work construction and terms of reference. The detection error by monitoring both product and the method by which it is produced The prevention of errors at the earliest(right at first time) The total involvement of all concerning the contribution to the final products quality. Establish a total forward or backward control system, allowing flexibility for change. Purpose of Quality control – It is a long standing tradition of any organization to offer the customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of this control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting our high standards. In, addition company‘s quality control program can also help the suppliers with their operation. Quality control program not only help spot and reject defective items, but more importantly they pinpoint production operations that need special attention, there by reducing the number of defects in future production. This type quality control provides basis for management decisions in the manufacturer‘s plant. The defect refers to the condition that renders merchandise of second quality or unacceptable because the defect is one or more of the following: http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 101

It is conspicuous It will affect the salability of the product It will affect the serviceability of the product It is significantly different from the specification It is understood that all performance and legal requirements should be following the letter( L/C or any other contract between the buyer and seller) with no deviation allowed, including (but not limited to ) requirement for the following: Flammability Refurbishing(cleaning) Labeling A manufacturer realizes the following benefits from the Quality control program: Getting most for the quality control dollar. Using the entire quality control staff most effectively Ensuring that even with turnover of personnel quality is maintained Product Liability and Safety Regulations Governments enforces very strict regulations about the safety standards on consumer products in order to ensure the well being of its people. When a consumer is hurt, or killed due to the fault of the product of the product or malfunction of the product, the consumer or his/her relatives may sue the retailer who sold the goods and/or the importer who imported the goods and /or the manufacturer who made the goods for a very large amount of money. Product Liability and Safety Regulations In most developed countries, the government enforces very strict regulations about the safety standards on consumer products in order to ensure the well being of its people. These regulations are particularly strong on goods intended for children such as toys and children‘s wear. If we in inadvertently make goods with some potential, we may get ourselves in very serious situations. When a consumer is hurt, or killed due to the fault of the product of the product or malfunction of the product, the consumer or his/her relatives may sue the retailer who sold these goods and/or the importer who imported these goods and /or the manufacturer who made these goods for a very large amount of money and stand a good chance to win. The amount payable to the victims is usually so big that it may put a company out of business. There are 3 parties involved—the retail store, the importer and the manufacturer. It is very difficult to say who should be responsible and to what extent without letting the judge see the contractual details and study the process in which the order was handled.

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If the hazard is discovered when the goods are made or shipped but not paid for by the buyer, he may find a way to cancel the purchase of these goods. If the goods have been received and paid for by the retails store, the store may return these goods to the importer or want the importer to sign an agreement of indemnity and then keep the goods, for the importer to take over the entire liability. When the hazard really turns into an accident, the importer will be responsible but he will do this best to shift the responsibility on the manufacturer. In view of the above complexity and intricacy due to the interrelated elements, usually the retails store, the importers and manufacturers would cover the product liability insurance. One should consider doing so if one has not taken it. A small minimum may save us a lot of grief. Common Hazards and its remedies In order to avoid the risk as a merchandiser or a manufacturer, we should be aware of the potential hazards and for everything possible to avoid them. If we suspect a hazard in the product to be made, we should bring it to the attention of the buyer for a discussion. Following are some common hazards: Flammability: On children‘s wear, the fabric should not catch fire easily. In other words the fabrics used in garments should be ―fire retardant‖. It simply means that it should not get ignited or catches fire and continues to burn into flames. To ensure the fabric is acceptable, you have to send a sample to the laboratory for testing , but you may also do a simple test yourself in the following manner to get the answer quickly Hold the fabric perpendicularly and hold a lighter half way down to the fabric to give fire to the surface of the fabric for 4 seconds and then move the lighter away. If the fabric does not catch fire and does not continue to burn when the lighter is moved away chances are , this fabric is OK. However if the fabric catches fire and continues to burn into flames , this fabric has strong potential problem. It stands a good chance of failing the test. If you still want to use it on children‘s wear, you must send it to a laboratory for flammability test. Please note the flammability act in US is especially strict on children‘s sleep wear. If you have any doubts then discuss the issue with your buyer and send a cutting of the fabric to a laboratory for testing. Draw String on Children’s wear: On children‘s wear, you cannot use draw-string on the neck and the hood in fear of the danger of an accident. If you are given an order to make a garment with a draw-string on the neck, or on the hood, you should double check with the buyer and make him aware of the safety guidelines. However, draw string on the waist or any part of the garment below waist is acceptable. Lead content in paint on garment accessories: Lead is a cumulative toxic heavy metal and is poisonous if ingested. It can cause a wide range of health problems including hyperactivity, learning disorders, withdrawal blindness, seizures, brain damage and even

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death. Once lead is ingested, it will stay in the person‘s body for the remainder of his/her life time to cause health problems. In view of the above reason U.S government has banned the use of lead containing paint on certain products particularly toys. In the garment industry, the most common garment accessories used on children‘s wear are: o o

Printed metal snaps or buttons. Printed metal zipper sliders.

If you are required to use the above accessories, you must strongly advise the suppliers to use paint without lead content(commonly called toy paint) or with such low lead content that it is. A test should be performed on the snap or zipper sliders before you should put them on garments. Azo Dye stuffs may cause danger: It is believed that the Azo dyes which may contain the following 20 amines may cause cancer: o 4-Aminodiphenyl o Benzidine o 4-Chloro-0-toluidine o 2-Napthylamine o 0-Aminoazotoluene o 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene o P-Choloroanilne o 2,4 Diaminodiphenylmethane o 4,4 Diaminodiphenylmethane o 3,3 Dochlorbenzidine o 3,3 Dimenthozybenzidine o 3,3 Dimethylbenzidine o 3,3 Dimyethyl o 4,4 Diaminodiphenylmethane o P-Kresidin o 4,4 Methylen-bis-(2-chloroaniline) 4,4 Oxydianiline 4,4 Thiodianiline 0-Toluidine 2,4 Toluylendiamine 2,4,5 Trimethylaniline The garment industry has decided to ban the sales of garments made of fabrics treated with Azo dyes which contain the above amines. This regulation has been enforced in Germany since April 1, 1996. Other countries in Europe, U.S.A and Canada are likely to follow but so far a decision has not been made.

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Azo dyes are most recently found in the following dyeing methods: Direct dyes Acid dyes (for wool, nylon and silk) Disperse dyes(for polyester) They are less found in the following: Indigo dye Vat dye Sulphur dye Pigment dye In other words , when we buy fabrics of direct dye, acid dyes and siperse dyes, we should make it clear to the supplier that your goods are for shipment to Germany and that you do not want the dye to contain any of these 20 amines named above. The dyeing mills should be able to choose dyestuff without the 20 amines to use to avoid the hazard. Garment merchandisers should watch the development of this Azo dye situation. If one is not able to update or is in doubt, it is not a bad idea to consult some of the reputable testing laboratories engaged in garment tests who should be well informed of the regulations of the various garment importing countries. One must observe the regulations to avoid the potential problem. Garment Defects Classification Once the samples are selected, each article is to be individually inspected. Defects detected during an inspection are buyer specific so therefore vary from one buyer to another. Defects are classified within the following categories: Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user and/or result in a hazardous condition. Major defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as specified by customer buyer are considered as major defects and are generally non repairable for example fabric hole, shading among panel, wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc. The measurement tolerate level may vary from customer to customer. Minor Defects: A defect that does not adversely affect the usability of the product but does consists of a deviation from the original sample, and may affect the sale of the product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship and some can be repairable but still can deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise for example stain, skip stitch, wavy bottom hem etc.

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Input Process Flow Chart: Inform The Corresponding Officer about completion of garments production Target

Corresponding Officer Forward a requisition form to the Planning Department

Planning Department Gives a token Containing new style No . Showing the token collect fabric from Cutting & Accessories from Store

Quality Check

Ready for Sewing Sewing process flow Chart: Input

Measurement Check

Print & Embroidery Check

Sewing Started

Get Full garments as output

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Stitch formation Sewing machines can make a great variety of plain or patterned stitches. Ignoring strictly decorative aspects, over three dozen distinct stitch formations are formally recognized by the ISO 4915:1991 standard. For a summary see involving one to seven separate threads to form the stitch. Plain stitches fall into four general categories: lockstitch, chain stitch, overlock, and cover stitch. Lockstitch Lockstitch is the familiar stitch performed by most household sewing machines and most industrial "single needle" sewing machines from two threads, one passed through a needle and one coming from a bobbin or shuttle. Each thread stays on the same side of the material being sewn, interlacing with the other thread at each needle hole by means of a bobbin driver. As a result, a lockstitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn; it does not need to be near an edge. Chainstitch Chainstitch was used by early sewing machines and has 2 major drawbacks: 1. the stitch is not self locking, and if the thread breaks at any point or isnt tied at both ends, the whole length of stitching comes out. Its also easily ripped out. [8] 2. The direction of sewing can't be changed much from one stitch to the next, or the stitching process fails. People soon realized a better stitch was needed, and it was found in the lockstitch. The chainstitch is still used today in clothing manufacture, though due to its major drawback it is generally paired with an overlock stitch along the same seam. Overlock Overlock, also known as "serging" or "serger stitch", can be formed with one to four threads, one or two needles, and one or two loopers. Overlock sewing machines are usually equipped with knives that trim or create the edge immediately in front of the stitch formation. Household and industrial overlock machines are commonly used for garment seams in knit or stretchy fabrics, for garment seams where the fabric is light enough that the seam does not need to be pressed open, and for protecting edges against raveling. Machines using two to four threads are most common, and frequently one machine can be configured for several varieties of overlock stitch. Overlock machines with five or more threads usually make both a chainstitch with one needle and one looper, and an overlock stitch with the remaining needles and loopers. This combination is known as a "safety stitch". Household overlock machines are widely used.

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Coverstitch Coverstitch is formed by two or more needles and one or two loopers. Like lockstitch and chainstitch, coverstitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn. One looper manipulates a thread below the material being sewn, forming a bottom cover stitch against the needle threads. An additional looper above the material can form a top cover stitch simultaneously. The needle threads form parallel rows, while the looper threads cross back and forth all the needle rows. Coverstitch is so-called because the grid of crossing needle and looper threads covers raw seam edges, much as the overlock stitch does. It is widely used in garment construction, particularly for attaching trims and flat seaming where the raw edges can be finished in the same operation as forming the seam. Feed mechanisms Besides the basic motion of needles, loopers and bobbins, the material being sewn must move so that each cycle of needle motion involves a different part of the material. This motion is known as feed, and sewing machines have almost as many ways of feeding material as they do of forming stitches. For general categories, we have: drop feed, needle feed, walking foot, puller, and manual. Often, multiple types of feed are used on the same machine. Besides these general categories, there are also uncommon feed mechanisms used in specific applications like edge joining fur, making seams on caps, and blind stitching. Drop feed Drop feed, the mechanism used by almost all household machines, involves a mechanism below the sewing surface of the machine. When the needle is withdrawn from the material being sewn, a set of "feed dogs" is pushed up through slots in the machine surface, then dragged horizontally past the needle. The dogs are serrated to grip the material, and a "presser foot" is used to keep the material in contact with the dogs. At the end of their horizontal motion, the dogs are lowered again and returned to their original position while the needle makes its next pass through the material. While the needle is in the material, there is no feed action. Almost all household machines and the majority of industrial machines use drop feed.. Needle feed Needle feed, used only in industrial machines, moves the material while the needle is in the material. In fact, the needle may be the primary feeding force. Some implementations of needle feed rock the axis of needle motion back and forth, while other implementations keep the axis vertical while moving it forward and back. In both cases, there is no feed action while the needle is out of the material. Needle feed is often used in conjunction with a modified drop feed, and is very common on industrial two needle machines.

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Walking foot A walking foot replaces the stationary presser foot with one that moves along with whatever other feed mechanisms the machine already has. As the walking foot moves, it shifts the work piece along with it. Puller feed Some factory machines and a few household machines are set up with an auxiliary puller feed, which grips the material being sewn (usually from behind the needles) and pulls it with a force and reliability usually not possible with other types of feed. Puller feeds are seldom built directly into the basic sewing machine. Their action must be synchronized with the needle and feed action built into the machine to avoid damaging the machine. Manual feed Manual feed is used primarily in freehand embroidery, quilting, and shoe repair. With manual feed, the stitch length and direction is controlled entirely by the motion of the material being sewn. Frequently some form of hoop or stabilizing material is used with fabric to keep the material under proper tension and aid in moving it around. Most household machines can be set for manual feed by disengaging the drop feed dogs. Most industrial machines can not be used for manual feed without actually removing the feed dogs.

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Garment finishing Process flowchart of garment finishing: Finishing input (style, color & size wise)

Ironing

Inspection

Hang tag

Get up change Folding

Poly

Bar code (buyer wise sticker)

Metal check

Cartooning

Final inspection by buyer

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Merchandising Merchandising is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of commercial activity. In the broadest sense, merchandising is any practice which contributes to the sale of products to a retail consumer. At a retail in-store level, merchandising refers to the variety of products available for sale and the display of those products in such a way that it stimulates interest and entices customers to make a purchase.

The main roles that merchandisers should follow is – Understanding Sample Order Merchandiser has to understand the buyer's requirements after receiving specification in the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required in decision making. Managing Production Timetable (T&A plan) Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of the various

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descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many processes, date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules. The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan. Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top priority are given to the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a "daily schedule", merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off non-essential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines.

Maintaining a Good Status to Schedule Activities To get updated on the current status on the order, the route cards should be utilized. The latest status can be fed into the computers. In case, the buyer ask for the goods prior to the deadline, then merchandiser has to reorganize the schedules to accomplish tasks, output capacity, no. of pieces to be produced daily, substitute arrangements, time availability, supply time, scheduling critical ratio, etc.

Submitting Pre-production Samples The pre-production samples should be provided on time to the concerned buyers. Quality of the sample must be verified. If required, revised samples should be made available to the buyers. Merchandiser should adjust to the required changes demanded by the buyer. The execution of bulk orders should be made only after samples are approved by the buyer. In-process inspection denote between any tasks in order-execution. In case of non- conformation, it is better to focus on the concerns of quality. Merchandisers that work on complete orders have to check deviation to the production teams so that any amendments can be done to avoid the nonconformity.

Solving Shortage Problem The merchandiser should know about the dearth of any commodity such as fabric, yarn, etc... from the beginning. Actions should be taken immediately to arrange required materials, after discovering the shortage. It is expected that the merchandisers should verify quality of the goods prior to execution of the order. If the material is found unavailable, the superior should be informed about the concern.

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Communicating and Coordinating with Associated People and Buyer It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should to go through the messages received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the people that are in-house, vendors, contractors and job-workers. Only through the right communication can one meet deadline for the concerned orders. Apart from the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to help him in the order execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge from time-totime to know current market trends. To record preferences for all the planned activities, use daily or time log systems. The Merchandiser should find out exact reasons for time consumption. It is necessary to keep record of time value and keeping it safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned parties/buyers. It is certain that merchandising jobs need huge time planning. In our view, the merchandiser is who creates a good relationship between exporters & buyers. The responsibilities that Merchandiser bears on the jobs Represents as a buyer to the factory Represents as a seller to the buyers Looking into the business to flourish more in future Offer the deal in a more competitive mode without compromising the Quality To satisfy the buyers to progress more of the future business. Merchandises aim is to impress the buyers by means of – 1. 2. 3. 4. Right product Right quality Right quantities Schedule time

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Required inner quality needed for a good Merchandiser:

Forecasting Ability While more methodical than fortune telling, merchandising does require forecasting ability in many sense. A thorough knowledge of trends of the previous season and an awareness of current industry developments will serve you well in a merchandising career.

Analytical Ability Problem solving and analytical ability also comes in handy in this field. A good sense of style would be an obvious help. However, a merchandiser must also determine how things fit into a budget, and whether they meet the functional needs of consumers. Other criteria may also influence merchandising decisions, so a merchandiser will need to be able to analyze a complex set of issues and stand behind his/her choices. Communication Skills Merchandising also requires good communication skills. From negotiating with manufacturers to getting your marketing message out to customers, there is ample opportunity to exercise the power of communication in the merchandising field Good command over English and an adequate knowledge of technical terms (we will publish a docs for the terms) for accurate and efficient communication. Especially good command in the language where the merchandise will be shipped. Now Japan is the most potential customer for Bangladesh, not only for apparel exports but also for other goods such as leather goods, shoes etc. So, right now, learning Japanese language would be the wisest and trendy decision in this trade. Good knowledge of Fiber, Yarn. Fabric, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing, Dyes and chemicals, Colorfastness, Garments production, etc. This knowledge can be acquired through both reading and practical experience. Apparel Makers‘ blog would be your good choice for current industry news and information. You should have clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the garments manufacturing. Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection systems & garments inspection systems. Relationship with the testing authority working in Bangladesh and knowing their process can be a definite advantage.

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Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the producing countries', duty rates, customs regulations, shipping and banking documentation etc. That‘s only a short description in which we have given you an idea who is good merchandisers for the industry. Our apparel industry needs you to be more skilled and capable in managing things well. This sector earns us more than 78% (appx.) of our foreign earnings and you are in the driving force to keep this process up. It is you, not the production who faces the buyers and meets their requirements with good customer service attitude in mind. As merchandisers you need to develop yourself as well you need to march your company forward to meet its goal. You may have different opinion or suggestions, even some good experience to share with our readers‘, let us know. We want to listen to you, just put your opinion into the comments box, and let‘s have a discussion Remarks: We learned a lot from previous weeks visiting these sections of the garments. The Peoples around these sections are very helpful and willingly helped us in our work. This will help in our further visit to other sections also.

Buyer’s compliance for textile & garments in Bangladesh Buyer’s compliance All the buyers strictly follow the Labor & Labor Well Fair rules of Bangladesh Government. Their company policies are as follows – - No child labor; - No forced labor; - Transport facilities for employees; - Hours of work; - Voluntary over time; - Intervals for rest; - Weekly holidays; - Annual leave; - Festival holidays and leaves with bonus; - Maternity protection; - Workers; welfare committee; - Mineral drinking water; - Sanitary facilities; - First aid box; - Canteen services; - Health care activities for the workers and employ company doctor; - Fire extinguisher on each and every floor and conduct fire drill at least 12 times a year. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 115

We are giving a top priority on protection of fire and eventual evacuation; - Other safety departments (no discrimination); - Compensation cases department; - The Development of compliance program; - Environmental development; - Smoking free zone

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There are two floors in the printing section. Here are the details about the Gothic PrintingDetails 1. Tables 2. Auto Screen Printing m/c 3.Conveyer Dryer 4. Heat Press Quantity 24 pcs 4 pcs 4 pcs 3 pcs

Development flow chart: Order received from customer Design Development Expose room Sample make Sample approval Send to production

Different types of Printing:       Pigment Print Rubber print High Density Print Plastisol Print Puff print Glitter print (this system is not used)  Rainbow print (this system is not used)       Pearl scent (this system is not used) Radium print Foil print Jel print (this system is not used) Metallic print Heat transfer (this system is not used)  Flock Print (this system is not used)  Discharge print

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Sequence of printing Garment parts count

Screen preparation

Printing paste preparation

Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion

Printing the garment part by using screen

Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow

Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c

Inspection is done in qualify control department

Screen Preparation: Mesh fabric tight with frame

Applied chemical auto sol and potassium dichromate on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.

Placed design paper under the mesh.

Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.

Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 119

Different types of print used in Epyllion with their chemical name: 1. Pigment print: Print perfect 226 EC (ready paste) +color basic=various types of shade are produced. Supplier name:  Dysin  CHT Brand name:  CHT  Seikafix Brand name of CHT:           Red KGC Red HBB Violate FB Orange RG Yellow 3GT Yellow RR Violate KB Black BDC Turquoise GT Green GT

Brand name of seikafix:  Seikafix red  Seikafix yellow  And so many color Dysin:  PTSD (red, yellow, blue etc.) (Chemical group or brand name)  SERICOL (red, yellow, blue etc.)(Chemical group or brand name) CHT:  Printop (chemical group)  Uniflux(chemical group) 2. Rubber: Supplier name:  Daysin http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 120

   

White paste 101 Orient paste 251 Clear 594 Oxal

Rubber paste of CHT:     Balance 600(white paste) Laclf(matty type) Mc 230(glossy type) Oxal

3. High density & Plastisol: Shade can be produced to mix ready color and basic. If the density of the plastisol is high then it is called high density. 4. Puff: Dysin chemical:     SP37(for puff) White paste 101 Orient paste 251 Clear 594

CHT chemical:     PPEXTS-2(for puff) Balance 600(white paste) Laclf(matty type) Mc 230(glossy type)

5. Gliter print:     Daysin paste BF733/ST60(paste) CHT pasteGD200 Gliter Oxal

6. Radium: Ready paste 7. Foil print: Foil paste (k-40) Dysin http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 121

8. Jel paste: CHT (supplier) GD200 (gel paste) 9. Discharge: Asuchem (supplier) Asurongent EB Printing faults: 1. Print color shading 2. Print slarted 3. Color spot 4. Bleeding 5. Print wrong 6. Print burn 7. Air hole 8. Print bubble 9. Print missing 10. Wrong place 11. Not properly attached 12. Hand feels 13. Migration 14. Dirty mark 15. Uneven shade 16. Shade variation 17. Print sticky 18. Print not coverage 19. Print gap 20. Print over 21. Wrong side 22. Color wrong 23. Size mistake 24. Bundle card mistake 25.Fabric hole 26.Fabric shade 27.Crease mark 28. Oil spot 29. Fabric burn 30.Needle mark 31. Cutting problem 32. Sticker wrong 33. Dye migration 34.Yarn hole 35. Yarn contamination 36. Fly yarn. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 122

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Embroidery machine specification: No. of machine: 09 (1) M/C of 1 Barudan Sequence (2) M/C of 8 Electronic multi-head automatic Embroidery M/C Brand: Barudan Country: Japan No. of head: 20 No. of Needle per head: 9 M/c‗s computer: screen touch monitor Stitching types:        Lining:     Soft lining Discreet lining Fusing lining Hard lining Satin stitch Tatami stitch Run stitch Single run Double run Chain stitch Motif run stitch

Embroidery software: WILCOM SOFTWARE

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Threads used in Epyllion in embroidery section Thread Brand Types Country Thread m/cone 2500 3000 3000 Japan, 3000 contain

Madera Well & Pearl Caots Bangladesh Metallic thread

120/2 (Polyester) 120/2 (Polyester) Polyester, cotton Polyester

Germany Bangladesh Bangladesh Bangladesh, Korea

Embroidery faults:  Stitch gap  Bobbin out  Oil spot  Miss thread  Measurement up-down  Needle hole

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Washing flow chart: Garments from store house ↓ Count ↓ Quality check ↓ Batch ↓ Washing ↓ Hydro extractor ↓ Drying ↓ Quality check ↓ Packing ↓ Delivery

M/C brand and no of M/C 1. No of garments dyeing m/c & washing m/c: 12  Brand name: TONGXIN  Origin: China http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 127

2. Sample washing m/c: 4  Brand name :TONGXIN  Origin: China 3. Hydro extractor: 4 4. Dryer: 12  TRIVENETA GRANDI IMPLANT  TONGXIN Types of wash:            Normal garments wash Vintage wash Enzyme wash Acid wash Super softener wash Spray wash Rinse wash Normal Enzyme wash Enzyme enzyme wash Heavy enzyme wash Heavy enzyme rubber wash     Caustic wash Sunfade wash Moonfade wash Sand wash

Garments dyeing:       Reactive Sulphur Pigment Pigment florescent Polyester disperse Waal dye/ Oily Dye/ Wavy dye

Drying:              Whisker Hand brushing/ Rubbing Tagging Granting Beast way Destroy/ Damaging Tearing PP Spray PP Rubbing Resin dip Resin Spray Crinkle Dye spray http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 128

Recipe: 1. Normal garments wash: M:L Felosan nof Temperature Time Softener : 1:10 : 5g/l : 50-55ºC : 8 min : 1-2 g/l

2. Vintage wash:  Applies heavy stonewashing or a cellulose enzyme wash, with or without bleach.  Gives an old and worn look. M: L : 1:10

Felosan nof: 0.5g/l Soda Caustic : 3-4 g/l : 0.5g/l

Temperature: 60ºC Time Acetic acid Softener : 35-40´ : 1g/l : 2g/l

3. Enzyme wash Enzyme : 0.5g/l

Fesoson nof : 0.5g/l PH Time : 4.5 : 25´-30

Temperature: 55ºC

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4. Acid wash: It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non-uniform sharp blue/white contrast. 5. Super softener wash: Silicon: 8g/l Softener: 2g/l Over dye:  Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of color.  Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush for local coloring. Why Garment Wash? If you are garment dyeing your product and will also have "white" in your line, garment washing is an economical way to "shrink" the white product so that the sizing is consistent with the product you garment dye. If you're applying artwork to white garments, using garment washing to preshrink the product will benefit you in two ways: First, the washing process removes most contaminants, making the application of artwork (screen print, batik, garment paints, etc.) easier. Second, there is less risk that your artwork will be negatively affected by shrinkage that would take place during home laundering. Many customers want product that is "pre-shrunk." Garment washing enables you to provide preshrunk product. Getting Started When considering garment washing there are some basics to consider: Are the garments made of 100% cotton? Other fibers and/or blends may need to be processed differently. Is the fabric compacted or pre-shrunk? Garment wash results will vary based on the way the fabric was finished. Are there anti-shrink chemicals or starches on the fabric? These will inhibit shrinkage (and dyeability). How much will the garments shrink and will they meet your specifications after shrinkage? Run shrinkage tests on all products you use. Will you be dyeing the garments after washing? If so, make sure the garment washer does not apply any after-wash chemicals or softeners.

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Garment washers measure production in pounds of dry garments. Each garment washer has different production minimums. Some washers charge minimum poundage regardless of the actual poundage. Make sure that you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent. Whitening, Weathering, Distressing, Softening Garment washing may affect the whiteness level of your garments—they can look dull or yellow after processing. Most garment washers can add whitener to the process to ensure a bright white finished product. Make sure to ascertain any costs involved and factor them into your product costing. There are many special effects, such as weathering, stone washing, acid washing, distressing, etc. that can be produced by garment washers. These effects, while very popular, each have their own drawbacks. They are costly, have higher fallout rates, and are generally rougher on the fabric. Talk to your garment washer about prices and what to expect of the process you choose. Garment washing can affect the hand (feel) of the fabric. Garment washers can add fabric softener to the process. Some use softeners as part of their normal procedure. Check with your garment washer as to any extra costs associated with softening. Some softeners can affect garment dyeability. If you are planning on dyeing your garment-washed product, be sure that the softener your garment washer is using will not negatively impact your garment dye results. The best way to be sure is to insist on a "nonionic" softener and test, test, test samples for dyeability. Shrinkage In cotton knits, shrinkage is the consolidation of the knit structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Commercial Wash and Dry equipment can accelerate shrinkage in less time (rate of shrinkage) than home laundry equipment. Ultimately all processes will promote the same degree of shrinkage. It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the after-wash dimensions correspond with your requirements. Industry standard for variance from specified shrinkage is + or - 5%. As we said before, test, test, test. The garment wash process is sometimes blamed for results outside the washer's control. The most frequently encountered are torque or Spirality, identified by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is created in the yarn formation, knitting, and fabric finishing process. It is a condition that is considered "normal and accepted" in the industry. No one yet knows how to eliminate torque and, therefore, Style Source nor any other fabric manufacturer that we know of warrants against it in totality. Surface Abrasion The physical process of garment washing can cause "pilling" on the surface of some knit fabrics. This is a normal result. If pilling is unacceptable to you, request that your washer use a cellulose http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 131

enzyme treatment (at extra cost). When properly applied, this enzyme can reduce and/or eliminate pilling caused by the garment dye process. Be careful not to use this treatment on fleece! Quality The term "fallout" refers to garments that are unacceptable after garment washing. They may be dirty, stained, discolored, and possibly torn. Many stains can be removed with rewashing. Most garment washers will track and accumulate these garments and rewash them when they have enough pounds to meet the requirements of their equipment. Ask your garment washer about their fallout and rewash policies. Do they charge for rewash and if so how much? Ask what their normal fallout percentage is. If it is over 2% you may want to consider alternative garment washers. Remember to cost fallout into your product's price. Final inspection is another area that is handled differently by many garment washers. Some inspect for dirt and gross garment defects. Some will provide inspection services to meet your criteria. Be certain you understand how your production will be inspected, sorted, and packed, and as always, be aware of the costs involved. There are other services related to finishing that garment washers can provide. These include sorting (by size, color, etc.), special packaging, hand pressing, steam tunneling, hanging, and tagging. Your garment washer may provide other services that may be of value to you. Ask your garment washer for what you need and remember to settle on price prior to commencing production. Final garment dimensions for garment-dyed or garment-washed products will be based upon predetermined "after process" standards. Due to the consequence of fabric shrinkage variability, combined with normal sewing tolerances, the range of variation will be significantly higher than garments sewn from piece-dyed fabrics. Industry standards of +/- 5% fabric shrinkage variability illustrate the process capabilities of most fabric mills. This variability can be reduced by pretesting fabric lots prior to cutting and adjusting patterns for fabrics exhibiting variance. It is reasonable to expect an overall process capability of +/- 3%, which still is enough variance to cause minor grades to overlap a certain percentage of the time. Arbitrary "standards" cannot be accepted if they fall outside the process capability. Problems occur in washing: Before wash:        Dirty spot Dyeing/color spot. Needle damage. Fabric hole. Measurement problem. Shade variation. Printing problem. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 132

After wash:      Measurement problem. Shrinkage problem. Color bleeding. Needle line. Spirality problem

REMARKS: We have learned a lot of from this section of washing. The employers and employee helped us so much during our working. This will help further visit to other sections also.

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Types of raw Materials 1. Yarn 2. Fabric 3. Dye stuff 4. Chemical and auxiliaries Cotton Yarn Company 1. Thermax 2. Mahima Dyes and chemical used in Epyllion knittex…. Serial No. 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Material Description Eulysin S Merapen KP Biavin109 Breviol PAM-IV Kappavon AC65 Kappavon CL Primasol jet Rucolin JES Setapolymer 399comz Antifoam AFJ Antifoaming Foam Master Kappasol AE2000 Acetic Acid Caustic Soda Glauber Salt H2O2 Oxalic Acid Soda Ash E Wet well Felosan NoF Foryl BGL Setacid SN Setawash SB Tannex Noveco Wetto NoF Biopolish http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 135

Agent Acid Buffer Acid Buffer Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Anti Creasing Antifoam Antifoam Antifoam Antifoam Basic Chemical Basic Chemical Basic Chemical Basic Chemical Basic Chemical Basic Chemical Detergent Detergent Detergent Detergent Detergent Detergent Detergent Enzyme/ BioPolishing

28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

HDL 160 Retrocell PLX Unizyme S20PCT Albafix ECO Fixos FDR Hydrocol Sun Kappafix GG100 Lamfix L Optofix EC Arristan GH Arriston 100 Jinley CL 225 Lekol SN Levegal RL Setacristal VBT E Setalen GLN Croscolor PLD Sata SUE Heptol DBL Heptol EMG Neutracid NVM Belfasin Belsoft 200 Kappasoft BD Kappasoft N69 Perapret F PEB Tubingal 112 Kappaphor ME Syno white Tuboblance Col Tuboblance HAPD Tuboblance HVS3 Tuboblance Rub Tuboblance EBF Ultraphor BNLQ PK 20 Verolan NBO Cefasoft SHD Condensol FAM Fixapret ECO Lurotex TX2504 Antisil conz Chelate DBC Kappaquest A41 http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 136

Enzyme/ BioPolishing Enzyme/ BioPolishing Enzyme/ BioPolishing Fixing Fixing Fixing Fixing Fixing Fixing Gum Gum Levelling Levelling Levelling Levelling Levelling Levelling ( Polyester) Levelling ( Polyester) Neutralizer Neutralizer Neutralizer Catatonic Softener Catatonic Softener Catatonic Softener Non ionic Softener Non ionic Softener Non ionic Softener OBA for Cotton OBA for Cotton OBA for Cotton OBA for Cotton OBA for Cotton OBA for Cotton OBA for Polyester OBA for Polyester Per oxide Killer Per oxide Killer Polyester Softener Resin Resin Resin Sequester Sequester Sequester

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 Dyes Brand Name Serial No. 01 02 03 04 05 06

Kappaquest FE Securon 540 Adasil ME Adasil SM Antipil Jet Kappasoft SM Polyavin LPE Unisil LYC Unisil NLP-W Avolan IS Cyclanon XC-W New DSP 1250 Ladipur RSK Setamol WS Hydroperm SRHA TH Sanitized T25-25 Contavan GD Kappazon H53-250 Setabicol A-4 Stagen B Dyapol ECO KappatexR 98 Meropan Red Sodium Hydrose

Sequester Sequester Silicon softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Sopping Sopping Sopping Sopping Sopping Special Finishing Special Finishing Stabilizer Stabilizer Stabilizer Stabilizer Striping/ Reducing Striping/ Reducing Striping/ Reducing Striping/ Reducing

Brand Name Bezaktiv Sunfix Remazol Levafix Imcozon Reactive

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Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine life and ensured trouble free service. Maintenance of Machinery: Maintenance

Preventive Maintenanc e Mechanical Maintenance Electrical Maintenance

Routine Maintenance

Corrective Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance

Mechanical Maintenance

Electrical Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance: Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description. Routine Maintenance: Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineers of the maintenance department. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking if different important parts are done. Corrective Maintenance: Corrective Maintenance is done after a failure has occurred. Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. has an expert team for maintenance. When problem occurs they actively solve the problems.

Maintenance Procedure: As a part of maintenance normally Landmark Fabrics Ltd. follows preventive maintenance. During maintenance procedure following points has to be checked.

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Maintenance : Machine :

Mechanical Dyeing Machine Items need to be checked and serviced Grease the machine bearing. Complete cleaning of machine. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required. Check air supply filters, regulators, auto drain seals. Greasing of unloading roller bearings. Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading gear box. Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing. Checking and cleaning of main vessel level indicator (if required). Checking of all belts and belt tensions. Check all door seals.

S/l No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Maintenance : Machine :

Electrical Dyeing Machine Items need to be checked and serviced Check all motor terminals. Check main panels. Clean main pump inverter. Check all circuit breaker. Check all pressure switches. Visual checking of all power and control cables.

S/l No. 1 2 3 4 5 6

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7 8 9 10

Check all pneumatic solenoids. Check all emergency switches. Check all on/off switches. Check all signal isolator.

Maintenance Tools and Equipments: S/l No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Tools Screw driver Center punch Pipe cutter Hammer Hack-saw Tri-squire Wire gauge Adjustable wrench Measuring tape Spanner Drill machine Chisel Welding machine Ratchet Pliers Functions Ideal for service or repairing loss. Used for cutting and drilling. Used for pipe cutting. Used to beat metals. Used for cutting purpose. Used for measuring purpose. Used for wire. Used to hold something. Used for measuring purpose. Suitable for driving metric/ AF. Used for drilling purpose. Used for cutting purpose. Used for welding purpose. Used to hold something. Used to hold something.

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Available Utility Facilities: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Electricity Gas Water Compressed air Steam etc.

Electricity: Epyllion has two GAS Generators of DEUTZ brand of Germany (1.34 MW). But they have also two standbys Diesel Generator of DEUTZ brand of Germany (1 MW) to overcome the problem due to the failure of electricity. Source of Electricity: Diesel Generator Gas Generator. Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section like knitting, Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WPT, ETP etc. In garments there two generator, one is Diesel generator (1.3 MW) and another is gas generator (1MW).

Fig: DEUTZ diesel generator

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Gas: Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m3 gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam. Water: Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible and centrifugal pumps. There are three deep wale in Epyllion which are giving about 200 m3 water per hour. Epyllion knittex need 120 lac liter water and garments need 20000 liter water every day. Boiler: Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required. In Epyllion three boilers are used to produce and deliver steam to different section. Specification Boiler (A) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Brand Name Max.capacity Origin Fuel Type No. of Boiler : CLAVER BROOKES : 9.4 tons : USA : Gas :2

Fig: Claver Brookes Boiler

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Boiler (B) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Brand Name Max.capacity Origin Fuel type No. of Boiler : DAELIM : 8 tons : Korea : Diesel :1

Fig: DAELIM Boiler Compressor: Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required. In Epyllion six compressors are used to produce and deliver compressed air to different section. Name Origin No of compressor : Rollayer : France : 5 (large 3, Small 2)

Another one is Sanlion brand.

Source of Utility: Electricity Gas Water Compressed air Steam : : : : : PDB & Generator TITAS Pumps compressor Boiler

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Effluent Treatment Plant: All industrial operations produce some wastewaters which must be returned to the environment. Textile industries produce wastewater, otherwise known as effluent, as a by-product of their production. Effluent from the textile industry is a major source of environmental pollution, especially water pollution. Among the various stages of textile production, the operations in the dyeing plant, which include pre-treatments, dyeing and finishing, produce the most pollution. The textile dyeing wastes contain unused or partially used organic compounds, and high biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) and chemical oxygen demand (COD). They are often of strong color and may also be of high temperature. When disposed into water bodies or onto land these effluents will result in the deterioration of ecology and damage to aquatic life. Furthermore they may cause damage to fisheries and economic loss to fishermen and farmer, there may be impacts on human health. The rise in the number of industries in Bangladesh, including textile dyeing operations, has seriously increased the pollution that the country is experiencing. Consequently national laws have been enacted to protect the environment from this pollution. In Bangladesh textile dyeing is categorized as a Red Category Industry under the Environmental Conservation Act (1995). In accordance with the Act and Environmental Rules (1997) it is mandatory for textile dyeing factories to install effluent treatment plants (ETPs) to treat wastewater before it leaves the factory premises. The difficultly that many of these industries face is that effluent treatment is not part of their daily business as textile manufacturers. However, in order for these ETPs to function effectively and meet national standards they require regular and proper monitoring. Untreated and treated wastewater characteristics need to be known and must be monitored regularly to evaluate the efficiency of the treatment plant. Different parameters in different units of the ETP also need to be checked to diagnose any internal breakdown of the system. It is hoped that this booklet will provide some guidance on what needs to be checked and how the checks can be made. This booklet is intended to be read in conjunction with another booklet in the series, entitled ―Choosing an Effluent Treatment Plant‖, which provides information on the form of wastewater produced by textile dyeing processes, the components of ETPs, the design of ETPs and the national effluent discharge quality standards defined in the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Rules, 1997. The briefing note on ―Environmental Clearance Certificates‖ also produced in this series may be of additional use. Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor extracted from the industry after using in original operation such as the excess dye liquor, effluent of pretreatment, after treatment etc. The effluent contains various chemicals that are harmful for the environment. Industrial effluent generated from different processes are treated with various chemicals to remove or neutralize the http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 147

environmentally toxic materials present in it, before discharging it to surface or ground water. This is called effluent treatment. There are generally two types of ETP found in our country – 1. Biological ETP 2. Bio-chemical ETP. Epyllion has Biological and Bio-chemical ETP in the factory premises. The output of the ETP is about 2400 m3/day and 3000 m3/day. The effluents produced from different process are collected in a tank. Then this effluent goes through different steps to make it acceptable discharge level. By law factories must monitor the quality of their wastewater and stay within national limits for pollution. The Environment Conservation Rules, 1997 provide national standards for the quality of industrial wastewater being discharged into certain places including open water bodies, public sewers and irrigated land. They also provide specific discharge quality standards for key parameters from certain industries, including the textile dyeing industry (Table). Although the effluent discharged from textile dyeing units varies, it generally shows pollution indicators of far higher values than the desired level. Pollution indicator data collected from two industries in Bangladesh demonstrates this table. These values can vary with different processes as well as types and conditions of equipment used in the textile industries, but almost always show greater values than the standards set by the Department of Environment (DoE). Characteristics of waste water: Parameter BOD COD TDS TSS DO PH Concentration present 25 104 2857 90 6.51 6.95 Inland 50 200 2100 mg/l 150 mg/l 4.5-8 6-9 Public 250 400 2100 500 4.5-8 6-9 Irrigated water 100 400 2100 200 4.5-8 6-9

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Screening Storage Neutralization Biological oxidation Sedimentation Sludge recycling Access sludge thickening Description of the Bio-chemical ETP: Screening Screening is a mechanical process that separates particles on the basis of size. There are several types, which have static, vibrating or rotating screens. Openings in the screening surfaces range in size depending on the nature of the waste. In the case of textile dyeing industries they should be small enough to catch pieces of cloth, which may damage process equipment, reduce the effectiveness of the ETP or contaminate waterways. Equalization Tank: The waste water are collected and treated in the equalization tank. This waste water is alkaline in nature. Solution of H2SO4 or HCL is dosed here to neutralize the waste water from alkaline condition. PH control tank: In this tank, ferrous sulphate is used to control the pH of the effluent. The pH of the effluent comes down to 6-7 from the value 10-11. Coagulation and Flocculation: Coagulation is used to remove waste materials in suspended or colloidal form. Colloids are particles over a size range of 0.1 – 1 nm (10-8 – 10-7 cm). These particles do not settle out on standing and cannot be removed by conventional physical treatment processes. In a small sample of wastewater there will be both settle able solids and dispersed http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 149

solids. A significant portion of these non-settle able solids may be colloidal. Each particle is stabilized by negative electric charges on its surface, causing it to repel neighboring particles, just as magnetic poles repel each other. Coagulation is destabilization of these colloids by neutralizing the forces that keep them apart so that they can agglomerate 2,3 (come together). This is generally accomplished by adding chemical coagulants and mixing. Figure 1 illustrates how these chemicals reduce the electric charges on colloidal surfaces. Primary Clarifier: In this tank, the sludge is separated also the measure the amount of sludge to monitor performance of the flocculation clarifier. The sludge is taken outside and buried down. Aeration tank: In this tank, air is introduced in the effluent and cow dung present in this tank increase the production of bacteria. The air is passing from under the tank. This helps in reducing the amount of BOD & COD value and also high oxidation efficiency is got for diffused aeration system. Secondary clarifier: Primary clarifier cannot separate sludge alone from the effluent. The remaining sludge is separated in this tank as well as the TDS value of the effluent is reduced. Chlorination tank: In this tank, sodium hypochlorite is used. As a result, the color of the effluent is changed into color less or in pale yellow color. Also the disinfection of the effluent is done through chlorination in this tank. Multi Filter: In this filter, extra suspended impurities are separated through passing the effluent is sand bath. The water got from this tank is now reserved for using it in the toilet flash and the remaining water is discharged into the land. Functions of different chemicals: H2SO4 & HCL:  Neutralize the water from alkaline state. Ferrous Sulphate/Aluminum sulphate:  To control the PH. Lime: http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 150

 To vanish the color of the effluent. Alum & Polyelectrolyte:  To agglomerate the smaller particles.  For sedimentation of the smaller particle. H3PO4/Urea:  For increasing the production of the bacteria.

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Inlet waste water

Equation Tank Channel Brush Lifting pump Raw water in

Aero jet 1 Aero jet Mixer

Storage & Homogenization tank

Aero jet 2

Air Blower 1 Air Blower 2 Air Blower 3

Sulphuric Acid Dosing

Neutralization tank

Distributor Return Sludge

Biological feeding pump

Air Line

Biological Oxidation tank

Air Line Water Decolornt Dosing Return sludge mixing water line Scraping Bridge Sedimentation tank Sludge return pump

Excess sludge thinking tank

Treated Water outlet

Filter press m/c

Process flow diagram of Biological ETP http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 152

Remarks: Following the regulation of environmental protection law, Epyllion treats the produced effluent in a controlled manner in ETP so that the discharged water does not cause any harmful effect to the environment.

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Store is the place where every type of raw materials, spares, finished goods are kept in proper system. Inventory control means the accurate calculation and data of every type of raw materials spares and finished goods in time to time in the store. Inventory control is necessary for effective running of the production. The main objectives of inventory control are given below –      To know about the required amount of raw materials. To finish the production in time. To continue the production process. To find out the profit or loss of a company. Stock and stock value for consumption measuring.

Scope of Inventory Control – - Raw materials  Dyes store.  Other chemicals.  Grey fabrics. - Finished fabric. - Spare parts. - General store:     Capital equipment‗s. Accessories. Stationary. Maintenance parts.

Frequency update –  Monthly inventory control  Annual inventory control Inventory Control System for Raw Materials: Dye store & other chemicals store –  Both of these are received by the store in charge.  First he sends these to quality in-charge for inspection. If they are found to be of required quality then they are taken to store by the storekeeper.  Store in-charge supplies these when required and records the date, type of material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 155

Grey fabric store –  Grey fabric is usually stored in another store room, which is separate from dyeing shade.  Grey fabric is first sent to the QC department for quality assurance and then taken to the store room.  Grey fabric is received by fabric store in-charge.  He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book. Stages of grey fabric inventory control –      After knitting production. Grey inspection. Warehouse. Batch preparation. Dye house.

Inventory Control System for Finished fabric – Finished fabric from the compactor or Stenter goes to inspection room. Here inspection is done by four points system. Required GSM, width (diameter), shrinkage, Spirality, wash fastness, rubbing fastness etc. are tested from the lab before packaging. After finishing the fabric is kept in package before their transfer to the garments department. It is controlled by the finishing in-charge who keeps a list of total finished product. He also keeps a list of delivery products. He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book. Stages of finished fabric inventory control –  Finishing section.  After final inspection.  Warehouse. Inventory Control System for Spare Parts:  Spare store officer keeps the spare parts in store and makes a list of spare parts.  If the spare parts are little in stock he gives requisition to maintenance manager.  Maintenance manager gives requisition to head office. Head office imports spare parts or buys from local market as per requirements.  As new spare parts arrive to store officer, he receives and catalogues them. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 156

 He supplies the spare parts as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book. Others: There is a central store at Epyllion. In that store, various types of forms, papers; stationary & other necessary goods are kept. Inventory Procedure:        Bin Card. Store Requisition. Store Ledger Account. Daily Inspection & Package Report. Monthly Stock & Consumption Report. Monthly L/C wise Delivery Report. Received Delivery & Balance Stock.

Function of store General store, CDA store and yarn store       Purchase requisition against indent Preparation of materials receiving & inspection report Issue to production against store requisition Input into the ledger Physical arrangement by type/group First in First out policy

Grey fabrics store     Received from knitting & sub contractor Issue to batch against SR after Input into the ledger Physical arrangement by fabric, type, order lot and Dia

Finish fabric store     Received from finishing after QC Delivery against booking merchandiser Input into the ledger Physical arrangement by order and color

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Leftover store     Received from all garments floor Sorting by item & color Preparation of packing list Delivery against DO

Substore Activities     Received from main store Issue to production against store requisition Maintain the ledger Physical arrangement by type

Procedures General store, CDA store and yarn store

Indent

Purchase Requisition

Purchase

QC
If fail then return to supplier

MRIR

Issue to production

Storage

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The data of costing is one of the most confidential data of the industry. Generally these data are not provided by the authority. The data of costing given here is just a representation of general price. The actual data might be different from the given price. Knitting cost of different Types of Fabric: Serial No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Fabrication Single Jersey Lacoste/PK Terry Fleece 1x1 Rib Interlock Single Jersey E. Stripe Lacoste/PK E. Stripe 2x2 Rib Knitting Price(Tk./Kg) 8-10 14 14-15 17-18 17 18-20 130 150-160 24-25

Dyeing & Finishing Cost: Sl. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Types Of Shade Light Color Light Color Medium Color Medium Color Dark Color Dark Color Type Of Finishing Tube Finish Open Finish Tube Finish Open Finish Tube Finish Open Finish Price/Kg 70-75 75-80 75-80 85-90 85-90 95-100 100-105

Black Color Or Extra Tube Finish Dark

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8

Black Color Or Extra Open Finish Dark Deep Black Or Deep Tube Finish Royal Deep Black Or Deep Open Finish Royal Only Wash Only Wash White White Tube Finish Open Finish Tube Finish Open Finish

105-115

9

115-120

10

130-135

11 12 13 14

35-40 40-42 40-45 50-55

Sl. No

Clarification Depth Of The Shade Percentage Shade Light Color Medium Color Dark color Extra Dark Deep Black Or Deep Royal Upto 1% Above 1% To 3% Above 3% To 8% Above 8% Above 12%

1 2 3 4 5

Sl. No 1 2 3

Category Of Bio-Polishing LIGHT ENZYME HEAVY ENZYME DOUBLE ENZYME

Price 10Tk/Kg 20 Tk/Kg 35 Tk/Kg

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Sl. No

PRICE QUOTATION FINISHING ONLY STENTER ONLY COMPACTING STENTER + COMPACTING ONLY TUBE DRY TUBE COMPACTING ONLY SUEDING

OF PRICE

1 2

25 TK/KG OPEN 20 TK/KG

3

OPEN 40 TK/KG

4 5 6 7

12 TK/KG 12 TK/KG 30 TK/KG

SUEDING+ STENTER+ 60 TK/KG OPEN COMPACTING ONLY BRUSH 25-30 TK/KG

8

Garments Costing A) Material (Fabric) Supplier Epyllion knittex Material Fabric Description Consumption Unit cost 0.350 Compact Jersey, 160 GSM 1×1 Rib, 0.018 220 GSM $ 9.40 AMT 3.29 Unit kg

Epyllion knittex

Fabric

$ 9.60

0.17

kg

A) Material ( Total)

3.46

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B) Trims & Accessories Supplier Material Description Consumption Unit cost $ 0.04 AMT Unit

WO CHENG

Size Loop

1.30 LO380-1.2General Size Loop HT0076-4.5General Hangtag 1.20

0.05

pc

Hangtag LTK NETVIGATOR

$ 0.36

0.43

Pc

WO CHENG

Main Label LO370-In1.30 3.8-men lbl in neck seam Care Label GS113-B OR 1.30 W 1.30

$ 0.15

0.20

Pc

Clotex label

$ 20

0.26

pc

WO CHENG

Loop Label GS008/305Loop Label Sewing Thread Polly Coats Tex30

$ 0.06

0.08

Pc

Coats Bangladesh Epyllion Ltd.

0.10

$ 2.50

0.25

Mtr

Single adhesive Polly Gross Tape Polly Carton Sticker 7 ply carton Tissue Silica gel

1.20

$ 0.08

0.09

Pc

Epyllion Ltd.

Tape

Grain 0.75

$ 0.20

0.15

yds

Epyllion Ltd.

Sticker

& 1.20

$ 0.03

0.04

Set

Epyllion Ltd. Epyllion Ltd. TBC

Carton Tissue Silica gel

0.15 1.20 1.20

$ 2.50 $ 0.05 $ 0.03

0.38 0.06 0.04

Pc Pc pc

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B) Trims & (Total)

Accessories

2.01

C) Embellishment Supplier Epyllion Ltd. Material Print Description Consumption Unit cost Placement Print 1.00 $ 1.85 AMT 1.85 Unit pc

C) Embellishment (Total)

1.85

D) Garments Wash Supplier Material Description Consumption Unit cost $ 0.15 AMT Unit

Epyllion Washing ltd.

Washing

GMT Wash

1.00

0.15

pc

D) Garments Wash

0.15

E) Manufacturing Cost F) Commercial Cost FOB/pc(USD) (A+B+C+D+E+F)

2.00 0.22 9.70

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Introduction: Marketing is the heart of a company‗s turnover. Epyllion group has a strong and skilled marketing team and under their effective direction it is now one of the prominent groups in the country. Here are the details of marketing activities: Major buyers of Epyllion group:

Consumers of product: Epyllion group LTD is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into various foreign countries. There is no local sell. Exporting countries: There are some countries which are importing goods from Epyllion. Which are given below         Germany France UK Netherland USA Italy Switzerland Russia Thailand

Marketing strategy: Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 166

Epyllion group maintain senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal with the buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to collect the orders. By both side understanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed. A well-defined marketing strategy has the following characteristics:      Good quality Low price or competitive price Prompt service Good commitment Good business communication

Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officer: Job summary: i) Market search ii) Market development iii) Customer‗s motivation iv) Production follows up v) Technical assistance of customer Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing officer. A marketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a marketing officer are given bellow     To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer. To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchandisers To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses Communicate with better criteria of the products

Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer & ends after receiving foods by the buyer. So, he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.

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Marketing Information: In an uncertain world market, Epyllion group Ltd doubled their efforts with their design team leading the way; they increased their calls as the customers & looked for ways to add new ones also. Having established a strong relationship Epyllion group added new and dynamic designers to the existing team & can proudly say that their collections were hailed as some of the best to be presented. These meetings boosted the confidence of existing buyers and attracted new customers. Epyllion group continued with their strategy to market value added products like dyed fabrics with special finishes. This is reflected in the increase in average price per linear meter. Epyllion group now in a strong position to take on the challenge of WTO in the end of 2004 when quotes will be abolished and only those companies with a reputation for innovative, creativity and reliability and the ones having strong strategic relationships and business alliances will survive and benefit. Buyer's Compliance: The factory is full compliance with ILO and Bangladesh Labor Law. Their company policy is as follows:         No child labor. No forced labor. Transport facilities for worker. Hours of work. Voluntary over time. Intervals for rest. Weekly holidays. Annual leave.  Festival holidays & leaves with bonus.  Maternity protection.  Worker's welfare committee.  Mineral drinking water.  Sanitary facilities.  First aid box.

Remarks: Epyllion Group has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always communicate with the buyers. The Group has some fixed buyers. The marketing section also looks the quality & quantity buyers and this section is successful in this respect.

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The working condition of Epyllion is very much better than most of the textile manufacturing industry in Bangladesh. But there are few points that might be considered for improving the current quality and productivity. Dyeing i. Operators should be warned to be careful about maintaining proper time of dyeing. ii. Wastage of water should be reduced. iii. During the transportation of the fabric in the dyeing floor & also during the loading of the machine, fabrics are soiled for the contact with floor. This makes the fabric/part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching agent or may create stain. Finishing i. Use of vacuum cleaner to reduce dust during cleaning machines. ii. Removing of unused machine or machine part from finishing and inspection floor. iii. Workers and staffs of finishing and inspection should be compelled to wear mask during work. Printing i. Introduce modern flatbed screen printing machine & transfer printing machine to increase productivity. ii. Inception of modern screen preparation system. Common suggestions: i. Drainage system should be improved to displace the rain water efficiently in front of dyeing floor. ii. Color of ribbon of ID card must be different for executives, interns, staffs & operators so that everyone can identify themselves easily. Garments ii. iii. iv. v. More skilled worker should appoint To control worker turn over, more step should be taken Cutting department should reduce fabric wastage Some extraordinary machine should brought, which are borrowed from another factory. http://www.seu.ac.bd/ 170

Conclusion We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill during the training period. We‗ve received co-operation & association from the authority fully. All the machines & materials found on appreciable working condition. All the stuffs & officers were very much helpful to us. We apologize for our any behavior which may disappoint the officers and personnel. Due to secrecy act, all the data on costing & marketing activities has not been supplied & hence the data given regarding to this do not resemblance to the actual data. The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, hence our effort spent on summarizing, not describing them.

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