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Whatt

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In December of 1952 my first wife, Kirby, and I left Vienna to drive through the Russian sector of Austria into Yugoslavia. At the border crossing, on a two-lane macadam road with no other car in sight, we stopped to present documents that permitted us to enter Marshal Tito’s country. Walking back to our car afterward, we met a man heading in the opposite direction, toward Austria. He had emerged from a big black car, and he looked important, like a diplomat or a capo. Seeing the initials of national origin on our small Morris convertible, he addressed us in English. I held in my hand our confusing travel directions. We asked the man if Zagreb was straight ahead.

He shrugged, and told us, “There is only one road in Yugoslavia.”

It was not long after our wedding. When I finished my initial year at Oxford, I flew home to marry Kirby, who had been my girlfriend in college. We had met on a blind date. When my college roommate asked his fiancée to fix me up, she asked, “How tall is he?” Kirby was pretty, intelligent, classy, and six foot one. I was only an inch taller, and found her height exotic. We had a good time together, sophomore and senior, and dated again … and again … and again. One thing led to another. That year I spent in England, we missed each other. We wrote letters back and forth, and by mail arranged to get married.

From London I flew to New York, 17 hours on a Lockheed Constellation with its triple tail. Our reunion was happy and frantic with preparation. After the September ceremony we had no time for a honeymoon, but took immediate passage to Southampton on the Queen Elizabeth. As a wedding present, my grandfather Hall had ordered us an English automobile, a tiny green Morris Minor that we were to pick up in London, and after Oxford ship back to the United States. From the dealer’s, we headed out into heavy traffic. Driving on the left-hand side of the road for the first time was terrifying. Kirby stiffened beside me, while I concentrated hard to keep us on track until we reached Oxford and the Banbury Road flat we had rented.

College terms were eight weeks long, followed by six weeks off. I spent the autumn taking notes for my B. Litt. thesis at the Bodleian, in Duke Humfrey’s Library, the oldest and coldest section. Kirby had the day alone, and spent much of her time reading Trollope or exploring our neighborhood of small shops—apothecary, fishmonger, butcher. In the evening we attended Oxford’s continuous party. For Kirby these gatherings were composed of strangers who did not notice her. When I had time at the flat, I worked over poems. I did little to relieve her loneliness.

By the end of term I had done my research and figured to begin my thesis when Oxford started again in January. What would we do for our six weeks of vacation? Another American gave us the answer: we should motor across Europe and down Yugoslavia to Greece, to Athens and the ruins of the ancient world. It was a simple drive, we were told, and the weather would be agreeable. We would take the honeymoon we had missed.

So in mid-December we departed Oxford for a Channel port, leaving after supper to catch an overnight ferry. Shortly we encountered the dense gray-flannel air of a London fog. I drove 10 miles an hour with my left wheels in the barely v

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