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Fabric Structure

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Submitted By hiddapidda
Words 373
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Textile Culture

Fabric Structures
Warp and Weft/ The warp is stronger
Plain weave fabrics
Cotton and Linens: * Calico * Muslin * Batiste/lawn * Chambray * Voile
Silks:
* Chiffon – sheer, soft, smooth * Organza – sheer, widget, stiff silk, wedding dresses because it keeps in shape * Taffeta – Big ball gowns, yarn dyed fabric, plain weave, rustling noise, smooth to the touch * Georgette – transparent, fluent, high twist thread, springy affect, dry bouncy feeling * Crepe di chine – bouncy feeling * Habotai – it doesn’t bounce * Shantung – Horizontal slub

Unbalanced plain weave fabrics
Canvas/duck, poplin (summer jackets, in shoes and bags) Poplin resolves in a horizontal rib, it’s a crisp fabric, normally made of cotton, it has a crispy feel to it,
Warp ribs: Always horizontal * Faille/bengaline – very thin * Ottoman – very thick, more pronounced, very compactable * Grosgrain

Variations of plain weave
Panama = hopsack = natté = basket weave (all the same) – difference between plain weave and basket weave, basket doubles up the structure, instead of 2 its 4 yarns – the structure looks a little rusty, often use in fine wools

Oxford * Similar to basket weave * Is using not for shirting

Balanced twill 2/2

Un-balanced twill – diagonal * Jeans are always un-balanced twill * Its no longer 2/2 it becomes 3/1 * Warp-face white, weft-face blue * Denim – 3/1 twill

Twill Weave fabrics * Denim – yarn dyed fabric * Gabardine – trousers, steep compact twill, unbalanced twill, top side is more compact * Chino – heavier, use for trench coat * Drill – similar to a denim, always a plain color, * Whipcords * Tricotine * Cover

Twill weave variations: * Herringbone – it can be chopped up in a different scales, fishbone affect, often is used in black and white, * Broken twill

Satin/third weave * Warp face, shiny affect * Weft face, dull side * Shiny surface front, dull back * 5 point satin * 8 point satin, we can’t see the structure
Satin weave fabrics * Satin – very delicate, can’t resist a lot of rebrations, isn’t always shiny * Duchesse – wedding fabric, very shine, very stiff, really expensive * Crepe satin * Charmeuse * Satin twill * Sateen * Pekin
Stripe/check:
Satin + plain weave

Honeycomb/waffle weave – bathrobe, tea towels, woven

Pinstripe – Fine single thread woven as a continuous pinhead spot giving the effect of striping

* Houndstooth/ dogtooth – coloring weave affect * Prince of wales check – only when it’s black and white

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